Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK guys, I can get Super Light weight Aluminium Flywheels made up to suit any car but the catch is to get a good price we need to do 10 of them.

I want one for my RB20DET.

I think that the RB25DET is the same flywheel, can anyone confirm this or does anyone in the ACT have an RB25DET flywheel I can compare to mine?

The price for the flywheels will be $900 (inc gst, ext frieght) a piece and they should weight around 3.6-4kg. The price includes fitting your ringgear and full balancing (usually would cost around $100 if you got an off the shelf flywheel)

Who would be interested in one at this price. Please msg here if you are interested or PM me if that suits better. PLease include which car you want it for.

Cheers

S13

Ok. I can also get another type of Aluminum flywheel that is slightly heavier and should be around 4.5kg. The price on these will be $750 inc gst with ring gear and balancing. I will require that you send me your original flywheel and cluth pressure plate for both of these options.

Bear in mind that these include fitting you original ring gear and balancing which would usually cost you over $100 to get done.

James,

No they are not totally aluminum. The cheaper one has a steel insert that can be removed or replaced. The lighter one has a special friction surface metal coating that is super hard wearing and can be recoated if it ever wears out.

A steel flywheel will weight a lot more.

Have a look at this link for a good idea on what a light flywheel does.

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/flywheel.htm

Mr Fanny.

The reason I need your flywheel and pressure plate is that your existing ring gear will be used and the presure plate has to be balanced together with the flywheel.

If you are thinking of upgrading the cluth at the same time you can send me the pressure plate only and I'll do a flywheel exchange with you when you get the Aluminium one. Your ring gear must be in good condition for me to do this.

Thanks

S13

Ogura flywheel from http://www.takakaira.com/

Its not pure alu. like yours, though then again, they still weigh 4.8kg, yes abit more, but for $US333 ($AU489.706) its abit cheaper. Not like many of us here are using the parts for record breaking times :)

RPM Billet Steel Lightened Flywheel – Nissan Skyline R32/33/34 - $395.00 from http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/fw03.asp

just another option/idea thats all :D

Thanks Brody,

I might see if we can do a group buy on these to get them a bit cheaper but either way these look good. Do you know if the quoted weight is with or without ring gear?

How did you order and pay for yours (if you did) and how long did it take to get here and what was frieght and duty cost?

Did you have to pay gst on it?

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Brody

Ogura flywheel from http://www.takakaira.com/

Its not pure alu. like yours, though then again, they still weigh 4.8kg, yes abit more, but for $US333 ($AU489.706) its abit cheaper. Not like many of us here are using the parts for record breaking times :D

RPM Billet Steel Lightened Flywheel – Nissan Skyline R32/33/34  -  $395.00 from http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/fw03.asp

just another option/idea thats all :)

i got my taka chromemoly 4.5 kg flywheel sitting at home. Chromemoly is alot stronger material than aluminum

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...