Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wonder 2 set of systems below will give any different output?

1st set

an amp that deliver 200RMS power to a 2ohm 12" sub

2nd set

an amp that deliver 200RMS power to a 4ohm 12"sub

will this give any different outcome?

thankx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196588-knowledge-question-bout-sub-volume/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

agreed

it completely depends on efficiency of the drivers

an 83db driver will be twice as loud (in sound pressure level - SPL) as an 80dB driver at the same power. Your ear may not "perceive" the SPL increase as twice the volume however - psycho-acoustics being what it is

mikel spot on. power is still power, only that some subs are 2 and other sare 4ohm, but amps are designed differently. more than often, 2ohm rating will produce more power than 4ohm.

agreed

it completely depends on efficiency of the drivers

an 83db driver will be twice as loud (in sound pressure level - SPL) as an 80dB driver at the same power. Your ear may not "perceive" the SPL increase as twice the volume however - psycho-acoustics being what it is

Not true unfortunately.

Sensitivity of a driver is measured at 1W, what the driver does with 100W or say 1000W in the real world is an entirely different matter.

It's easy to build a driver with a light coil and suspension, that has an efficiency of 105+dB with 1W, but it would most likely explode when you put even 100W into it.

Also "efficiency" specs never take into account enclosure etc.

The bottom line is, don't buy a woofer based on it's efficiency spec.

Phil

yes, but assuming both drivers have the same wattage rating, the one with the higher efficiency will produce more SPL at a given rms output of the amp.

I completely agree that you shouldn't choose a driver on efficiency alone.

Efficiency is just one of the valid specs to look at when choosing a driver, as is size, rms wattage, Vas, Fs, Q, Xmax, etc.

Efficiency is important if electronically assisting rolloff (eg using a Linkwitz Transform) as otherwise massive gain is required to achieve the desired response shape.

If two drivers met my needs but one was more efficient, I would choose the more effcient driver (assuming similar cost), otherwise you may need bigger amps, with more power drain etc to get the SPL you're looking for.

Not true unfortunately.

Sensitivity of a driver is measured at 1W, what the driver does with 100W or say 1000W in the real world is an entirely different matter.

It's easy to build a driver with a light coil and suspension, that has an efficiency of 105+dB with 1W, but it would most likely explode when you put even 100W into it.

Also "efficiency" specs never take into account enclosure etc.

The bottom line is, don't buy a woofer based on it's efficiency spec.

Phil

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...