Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Been searching my brain out,

THe window has physicall popped off both the front and back roller thingos and is now rattleing around insdie my door frame.

Is the easily fixed or major dramas?

I've had it popped off already, could get to the back roller and squeeze it back on with multi grips but the back would just pop off again when the window went up.

THe sissor arms, are they supposed to be dead straight?

The front one looks to be a bit curved but i don't know if thats normal or not?

ANy help appreciated.

:nyaanyaa:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196635-power-window-issues-more/
Share on other sites

hey dude i sujest replacing the window regulator which is a piece of piss should only be acouple of bolts holding it in. So just take the door trim off, undo the bolts remove window or tape it up so if don't fall down remove the window reg and refit. They are not a big problem at all. So yeah just go to a wrecker and get a second hand one cheapest way out of it.

I got in there again yesterday.

One of the sissor arms was bent BIG TIME !

Bent it back flat as best i could with multigrips and a spanner for support.

Back to raising and lowering OK with clearance of all the bits inside (not attatched to window yet) while looking down thru the top gap.

Re-attachted the window and popped both plastic things back on (one looks cracked)

As i rais it and inspect at the same time.....it get about 2cms from the top and the back sissor support pops out with a massive bang.

I'm thinkg the horizontal track which is bolted to the glass could be rooted.

Anyone got a smashed window with that piece intact?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...