Jump to content
SAU Community

r33 gtr ATTESSA problem????????

ma160802

By ma160802,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ma160802 Collaborator

ma160802

Posted
Posted

I have a problem with the attessa sysytem on my r33 gtr, just like to know if anyone has had this prob before. When the attessa system is working in 4wd it locks up the rear diff when turning corners. (We have checked to see if the diff was locked ,but its a standard one.)

When we put the car into rear wheel drive we dont have any probs with the diff. (the way we did this is dissconnected the fuse out of the attessa system) . I was told the rear pump of the attessa system is pushing all the pressure to the rear diff ,which causes it to lock the rear diff.

Does anyone know a fix for this? or have any suggestion?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19740-r33-gtr-attessa-problem/
Share on other sites
gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted

I assume it is a GTR Vspec.

Removing the fuse in a R33 does not completely disengage the 4wd.

What do you mean by in 4wd ?

They are normally 2 wheel drive and only 4 wd when accelerating briskly or drifting.

Sounds like the normal LSD action you get from a mechanical diff LSD .

Have you recently changed the diff oil or have you ever changed the diff oil ?

Cheers

Ken

ma160802 Collaborator

ma160802

Posted
  • Author
Posted

advan replaced the standard diff with another standard diff, because they thought it could of been a locked diff. But what they found was the diff was actually a standard one. The attessa system is causing it to lock and making it a constant 4wd. Something in the system is telling it to lock the diffs full time. So what we have done is pulled the fuse out and now it operates perfect in rwd.

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

MA160802 - yepp, don't leave it in 2wd otherwise you'll run the risk of burning out the clutchpacks.

The R33 GTR's area a little different to the R32 GTR's. When you pull the fuse on a R33 GTR it will still transfer a small amount of torque to the front wheels. Best thing to do is disconnect the front drive shaft - but I wouldn't drive around like that !

How long have you had the car for?

I'd been looking to see if you've got a HKS ATTESSA controler in your car, or something simular.

You might be suprised to find a little after market electronic controler that they may have put on in Japan and never took off.

J

MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted

MA160802,

I don't know a great deal about the R33 models but the R32 GTR and GTS4 have a ETS control unit under the under the rear parcel shelf accessible from the boot, this control unit has a LED on it to display system fault codes but these codes only display on the unit if the 4WD light on the dash stays on during driving.

So if your 4WD light lights up on the dash while driving and if you find out the codes the R32 ones I have might be similar to the R33 and I might be able to tell you whats wrong.

Although the ABS goes through the same system so maybe the problem is related to the ABS system too. (ie. wheel speed sensor)

Just trying to help!

MEGA

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I had a similar problem in my GTS4 - turned out to be one of the connections onto the TPS wasn't made properly.

I had ridiculous symptoms like 35kg-m torque to the front wheels while reversing out the driveway!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...