Jump to content
SAU Community

Oils - Engine, Gearbox, Which Ones And Where To Get?


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Went down to autobahn today to pick up some Redline shockproof, but it seems they don't sell it anymore.

Where can I get some in Adelaide? Northern suburbs preferred if possible.

Cheers.

Edited by Ionos
  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

dont use redline in your gear box its not good for jap gear boxs ask michael at auto barn mile end and mark tillbrook as the components in the oil isnt good and can cause alot of damage!!

Well, all reports I've heard are that it can work wonders on a worn gearbox. I've got a bad crunch going into 5th gear. I also used it in my last skylines with no dramas, but open to hearing alternatives short of a gearbox recondition.

dont use redline in your gear box its not good for jap gear boxs ask michael at auto barn mile end and mark tillbrook as the components in the oil isnt good and can cause alot of damage!!

Hey Kel, nice to meet you the other night...........do you know what these guys recommend for a GTR engine and driveline and if so, any chance of putting bit of a list together, I should be dropping all the oils cos who knows when they were done....I've only had the car for 4 weeks.

Hey guys, I know you probably already have your favourite brands of engine oils (generally Synthetic) but has anyone considered ULX-110 which has all the advantages of Synthetic without losing the advantages of Mineral based oils. A guy that I worked with at Adelaide Engine Service for many years is the National Distributor for the oil which is now used by many Top Fuelers around the world including my mate Marco Elbe who runs a 6 sec Keith Black '57 Chev that you may have seen at the Extreme Horsepower Show...if you knew what Marco has spent on that engine you know he wouldn't use a mineral based oil unless it was fully tested and proven.....here's an extract from their website;

http://www.ulx110.com/

Performance Advantages: Our multi-grade oils for gas and special fuels such as top fuel and alcohol have been designed with the help of some of the top engine builders in the United States. Demulsifiers and anti-scuff agents have been added for extended protection. Dyno tests have consistently shown an increase in horsepower consistent with synthetic oils but with none of the bad side effects such as scuffed cylinders and piston skirts, detonation, and weak spark due to wet plugs. Better oil pressure during severe and continuous service applications along with a reduction in oil temperature of 20F or more is also a plus. Our 2 friction modifiers work together to coat internal engine parts which results in protection at start up, and reduction of internal friction by 38%. This results in reduced fuel consumption of 8% or more in most vehicles.

Like I said, I'm good mates with the National Distributor and would be happy to approach him for a group buy if the interest was there....ULX-110 may even help the well known problem with RB engines where too much oil hangs around upstairs causing alot of blow-by.

i have redline in my 31, running 25 box, has made the box feel alot better since going to it, been in there for a few months now, cops a thrashing once a month and no dramas yet.

I have also heard this theory too of it being bad but thought i would try for myself and my mechanics said it is a good oil and the amount of hours they have put into that car i doubt they would wanna put anything bad in it.

Oh and where to get it - fours n more can get the stuff in, would probly be cheaper through motor traders though.

Edited by skylineguy19

Hi gang,

Changed the thread topic since I got my answer, and some good discussion going on.

RB25DET gearbox takes 2.8L - more will go in but will cause problems. Some people fill it to the brim, that is not correct! You wouldn't fill your engine with oil to the brim would you?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...+oil&st=20#

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...