Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No really cable ties...

Don't front bars screw on, and don't side skirts screw on and don't rear bars screw on, yeah sure there are some clips as well... but I've had all of my kit off and its all screwed no from factory

manufacturers use double sided tape in places...

Edited by 75coupe
No really cable ties...

Don't front bars screw on, and don't side skirts screw on and don't rear bars screw on, yeah sure there are some clips as well... but I've had all of my kit off and its all screwed no from factory

manufacturers use double sided tape in places...

Yeah was just wondering all the facts before i start pulling everything off knowing me i always do it the hard way ...haha

if its a brand new kit then fitting isn't as easy as just putting it on and screwing it on. ALL fiberglass bodykits need some sort of modification to fit and its not easy to get right, make sure u do the right research before you get into it, if its a plastic kit your all sweet just screw and clip it back on, will have holes and everything where its ment to go

Yeah i got the side skirts on today wasnt to hard some parts dont really fit very well but dosnt look to bad considering its not painted i gota find some sort of double sided tape to stick down the door jam area .... starting the rear bar 2moro

Yeah i got the side skirts on today wasnt to hard some parts dont really fit very well but dosnt look to bad considering its not painted i gota find some sort of double sided tape to stick down the door jam area .... starting the rear bar 2moro

i dont think double sided tape will hold use ureathane,screws or pop revets

About putting kits on. Got mine put one but don't have bumper indicator lights. Now none of my front indicator lights are working and they rear ones that are are flashing reallly really fast. What am I supposed to do now? Anyone know how to fix it?

Hey fellas got it on the other day its just sitn on bye a couple cable ties and nuts and bolts lol dudes im start to hate it though i cant even get out the damm drive way now its sucks ass please dont mind the low pics takn with my ph but really its not that hard to put on but make sure you gota enough bog to fix up your mistakes lol

post-35959-1198750954_thumb.jpg

post-35959-1198750990_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mobies

Ummm... the auto electrician took a look at my car and he claims that he can't see any indicator lights where the headlights are. Could someone point out where on earth the indicator lights are located?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...