Jump to content
SAU Community

4wd Icon With An 's' In The Middle

Oddy man

By Oddy man,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

You would need to speak to unique1 about the finer details of the differences, but I can defininately say that after having to replace my front driveshaft, there are a LOT of differences between the GTR and stagea attessa systems. I have never directly compared the clutch p[acks from a gtr to that of a stagea, but I think that looking at the rest of the main components (driveshaft, diffs, rear cradles etc etc etc) I can't see Nissan using the same transfer case internals. Why would you bother upgrading the capacity of the diff's, and then not upgrading the system that delivers power to it?

I am not saying that the atessa system will be the weak point in the case of power upgrades (that honour would have to go to the auto) but I just don't think I would place that much faith in it.

As for the Autech, I had always just assumed that due to using the GTR gearbox, the GTR transfer would have come along for the ride as well.

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted
.....I am not saying that the atessa system will be the weak point in the case of power upgrades (that honour would have to go to the auto) but I just don't think I would place that much faith in it.

....

disagreement !!!! the auto box is VERY strong

capable of living with 300rwkw, daily, for over a year, as proved by a couple of members

the auto box should never be underestimated, they are as strong as an Ox

;)

Stagea_Neo Experienced

Stagea_Neo

Posted
Posted

Having 4wd turned on makes a different off the line, it is definetly noticeable.

Not a huge difference but you can feel it, then sensation i can describe is it

feels like the car is more spritely, or lighter taking off.

I would hazard a guess that because the power to the wheels is distributed evenly and

with equally distributed driving force/torque, this will make it easier to shift the heavy

unit that is the Stagea.

As opposed to 2wd where the the load and driving force is at 2 points therefore will require more

force to move off at the same speed. You also notice the rear of your car squats a little as the

suspension and driveline takes up the initial torque as the power gets to the rear wheels.

ie. to use an analogy imagine two people pushing the car along from the rear, then adding two people

to push/pull at the front, heck of a lot easier.

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted

I've found that when the car is loaded up a bit, using the 's' button seems to make it drive easier...but I never tried that for very long (and obviously wouldnt' recommend it for a long trip).

+1 for the strength of the auto. I believe Nissan is best known for its bullet-proof drivelines and gearboxes. Most Nissan 4WD owners will know that the gearbox and 4WD systems are very good :rofl:

LiQuid IcE Experienced

LiQuid IcE

Posted
Posted

Just to clarify... Pressing that S button. It doesnt activate ATESSA and have constant 4wd. It just just changes it so when the ATESSA IS asked to kick in, it sends equal power to all wheels..

Correct?

Also I've noticed when the S button is on, When I switch the car off, the car will do a subtle lurch forward. Everyone else experience this? (It doesnt happen when S is turned off)

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
Just to clarify... Pressing that S button. It doesnt activate ATESSA and have constant 4wd. It just just changes it so when the ATESSA IS asked to kick in, it sends equal power to all wheels..

Correct?

Also I've noticed when the S button is on, When I switch the car off, the car will do a subtle lurch forward. Everyone else experience this? (It doesnt happen when S is turned off)

It will drive basically as a 50:50 awd - ie. constant. The only thing to remember is its NOT the same as the constant awd used in most other vehicles (ie. subaru wrx, mitsubishi lancer evo etc). Its just telling the computer to prefer 50:50 torque split instead of 5:95 (F:R). The computer will still override the "preferred" torque split if it feels it needs to, and so even in 50:50 mode if you're cornering fast etc. it may choose to transfer torque to the rears...but as the g-forces decrease and things return to normal, it will work its way back to 50:50. On the other hand, when the button is OFF, it prefers 5:95, and will transfer torque to the front as needed, but take the pressure off and it will work its way back to 5:95.

Clear as mud?

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
hehe thanks. so its constant. Clear

What does it mean when the "4WD" light comes on thats next to the "S" Light?

This light will light up when you first turn the car on and then turn off a second later. This is normal.

But if it turns on later or stays on while you are driving etc. it may mean you have a faulty sensor or blown fuse (hopefully) or issues with the AWD system (called ATTESA - Advanced Total Traction Electronic System for All). People who disconnect the front drive shaft and take out the fuse will have the light on all the time. Pretty sure its the fuse that would do it - best to check it out straight away because the system isn't designed to run like this for too long. Puts strain on the clutch packs etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
    • Duncan
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...