Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i know this topic is very simular to the one started by Dyken (no disrespect intended dude) but im just posting to know what pads ppl are using.

Im keen on getting new rotors, and im pretty sure ive got some lined up.......but what brake pads should i get on my series 1 N/A 4 door.

Ive heard the "green pads" are pretty good, but i have seen these on ebay (i know, a reall super safe option for brake pads!!!!) and was wondering if they were any good.

Heading/search for :

Race Spec Brake Pad SKYLINE 200SX 300ZX WRX STI RRP $80

Direct Link:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Race-Spec-Brake-Pad...ssPageNameZWDVW

QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Well any advice would be great, eg dust, grip, cost, long life/short life etc etc

EMZ

Edited by EMZ R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/
Share on other sites

Hey guys, just got a reply from the seller and this is what he had to say about the pads (as far as pricing goes) for my R33 N/A

Yes, l can help you out. I have a Non Turbo R33 Myself, Great car!

Total is $8(front)+$8(rear)+$23(delivery express)+$11.50(half price for 2nd item)=$50.50 Delivered

or $53.50 to get it all registered.

Cheers

This sounds to good to be true, has anyone else here had dealing with this seller (carmentangsux1) or these pads.

EMZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3537871
Share on other sites

to be honest dude, this should be in the suspension section.

the different brands/types of pads aren't going to vary from gts to gtst, and you'll get a wider response.

that aside, whats your intended application?

if you're not racing or doing some hard braking then there's no point in getting race pads. they are rated to higher temperatures and all you're doing is not using them in the correct temp range.

if it's just street, then get some decent bendix, ferodos or rb74s

for the record i use hawk performance hp+ pads. one of the dustiest i've ever used, squeals like a bitch when cold - but never fails to pull me up even from over 170km/hr at QR. wouldn't recommend it for the street.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3537877
Share on other sites

to be honest dude, this should be in the suspension section.

the different brands/types of pads aren't going to vary from gts to gtst, and you'll get a wider response.

that aside, whats your intended application?

if you're not racing or doing some hard braking then there's no point in getting race pads. they are rated to higher temperatures and all you're doing is not using them in the correct temp range.

if it's just street, then get some decent bendix, ferodos or rb74s

for the record i use hawk performance hp+ pads. one of the dustiest i've ever used, squeals like a bitch when cold - but never fails to pull me up even from over 170km/hr at QR. wouldn't recommend it for the street.

Thanks for the hints, just for street driving at the moment. Like you said, im after a good solid pair of pads that ill be happy with. Eg no squeeling, dust etc etc.

Im wondering what ppl out there on the roads are using and what they are happy with. You cant really stop at the lights and say;

"hhhhmmmmm lots of noise in those pads, best change them at the next set of lights"

Im after people opinions on their current setup (eg brand, dust, noise, bite/stopping ability) thats all

EMZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3537894
Share on other sites

i havent directly dealt with this seller before but i can vouch that these pads are excellent in value and have a fairly long life. I've used them for a whole year and theres no visible sign of wear on them and the cars a daily.

Another thing i find good about these is they're really low on dust, less dusty than my Bendix Premiums on the rear. Its a pain in the ass cleaning my white rims when they get dusty!

They also hold up pretty well on the streets, but i certainly will not recommend it for any track work as it'll just overheat(just a guess).

I bought my front pair for $40 :laugh:

If only this seller was there before.

I will certainly be turning back to these pads!

Hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3537899
Share on other sites

haha, yeh $40.00 a pair, they do retail for $80 each at some Automotive stores.

But then again, these are just everyday pads, if you dont push it and use decent engine braking, you're fine!

Just my 2c.

I cant justify using $250 for a pair of pads just to get around town..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3537940
Share on other sites

i havent directly dealt with this seller before but i can vouch that these pads are excellent in value and have a fairly long life. I've used them for a whole year and theres no visible sign of wear on them and the cars a daily.

Another thing i find good about these is they're really low on dust, less dusty than my Bendix Premiums on the rear. Its a pain in the ass cleaning my white rims when they get dusty!

They also hold up pretty well on the streets, but i certainly will not recommend it for any track work as it'll just overheat(just a guess).

I bought my front pair for $40 :)

If only this seller was there before.

I will certainly be turning back to these pads!

Hope that helps

Thanks for the comments mr33gtst......ill give them a go and report back to the guys here once i have them on. Total costs including postage.......wait for it.......50 bucks!!!

The seller said, despite the name, that they are for road use only and he strongly recommends against race use.....anyways ill let you know how it all goes.

Ohh and ill be getting new DBA rotos combined with these pads so yeah, thats my all round setup.

EMZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3539615
Share on other sites

i'd recommend RDA rotors, DBAs have been known to crack.

however for street use, go with whichever is cheapest

My appoligies im gettig RDA slotted rotors.....had to check that one, sorry.

And just a small plug, if anyone requires rotors, rs73 (member) has a deal with RDA and can get them at great prices. R33 non turbo 7691S = $275 delivered

EMZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3540659
Share on other sites

for the record i use hawk performance hp+ pads. one of the dustiest i've ever used, squeals like a bitch when cold - but never fails to pull me up even from over 170km/hr at QR. wouldn't recommend it for the street.

I've got Hawk HP+ on our R32 GTS-T, I've found them fine on the street other than the nosie, but I've been a little dissapointed with there performance on the track.

The pads I run on my GTS25 are mintex 1166, I use them both on the road and on the track and found them absolutely fantastic. The only down side is, I have to get pads custom made to suit the standard GTS25 2 pot calipers which is rather expensive

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3542228
Share on other sites

I think part of the problem is that I've heard so many good things about the hawk, that I was expecting more. What we've found is that after a few hot laps they loose there initial bite and the way the pedal feels dramatically changes, we are having to stand on on the pedal alot harder to get the sort of stopping power we want. And the fact that I'm also comparing them to the more expensive mintex pads which work better with a bit of heat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3542715
Share on other sites

very wierd. which track is this on?

in my personal experience the braking potential of the HP+ is very very progressive. this is probably a little more suited to my driving style where braking isn't sudden, but more so smooth.

never heard of mintex before.

what brake fluid and rotors are you using?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3542779
Share on other sites

My appoligies im gettig RDA slotted rotors.....had to check that one, sorry.

And just a small plug, if anyone requires rotors, rs73 (member) has a deal with RDA and can get them at great prices. R33 non turbo 7691S = $275 delivered

EMZ

lol, everyone should of taken advantage of supercheaps autos f*&K up in there catalouge, i got slotted pair fo rotors for $93.50 each

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3543109
Share on other sites

very wierd. which track is this on?

in my personal experience the braking potential of the HP+ is very very progressive. this is probably a little more suited to my driving style where braking isn't sudden, but more so smooth.

never heard of mintex before.

what brake fluid and rotors are you using?

It was on track 1 at taupo http://www.tauporacetrack.co.nz/pdf/track_1.pdf there was a couple of places were there was noticable decline in braking capacity, it happens on areas where you rapidly decrease your speed eg from 180kmh to 80kmh to make the corner.

The car has standard rotors and dot 5.1 brake fluid

Mintex is a fairly well known product here in NZ, here's a link http://www.proven-products.co.uk/mintex_c-tech_pads.htm with a little info about some of the compounds

Edited by skyla
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198054-r33-nas/#findComment-3543796
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...