Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

CAS on my r33 gtst is currently set at 10 degrees (retarded because stock ecu was advancing too much). I've got myself a power fc which I'm about to install and drive around with for a few weeks before i get it dyno tuned.

I figure before I fit the pfc i should return the CAS back to 15 (default?). is this easy with just the basic tools? how do I get the right angle? does the CAS click with each degree or do I need to pull out the old protractor? clockwise or anticlockwise?

searched but couldnt find much on specifically adjusting the CAS.

thanks in advance :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198255-cas-adjust/
Share on other sites

LOL! yeah get the protractor out and take some pics and show us how its done, that would be educational for all of us =)

hhahahaaa just kiddin mate, you have to get a timing light and set the timing by using the timing marks on the harmonic balancer on the bottom of the engine.

Probly take it to a mechanic would be the best bet for you, oh and btw it does not click.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198255-cas-adjust/#findComment-3540721
Share on other sites

I did read a few mentions of using a timing light, but I assumed that was if you were unsure of the default CAS setting.

If i know that the default CAS is 15 degrees, can't I just set it at 15? or is the angle not evident from the outside?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198255-cas-adjust/#findComment-3540764
Share on other sites

Yeah its not evident from telling the timing on the CAS. only when using a timing light on the harmonic balancer when you tell the timing then you move the CAS to correct the timing.

I did read a few mentions of using a timing light, but I assumed that was if you were unsure of the default CAS setting.

If i know that the default CAS is 15 degrees, can't I just set it at 15? or is the angle not evident from the outside?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198255-cas-adjust/#findComment-3540846
Share on other sites

probly better off waiting untill you put the power FC in and get your tuner to lock the timing. (its a term used for setting the timing on CAS to be the same on the ECU)

so just to clarify guilt toy, i do this BEFORE fitting the power fc?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198255-cas-adjust/#findComment-3541552
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...