Just About To Install A Trust 300+600+100mm Cooler On My R32 Gtr

[GTRBOS]

good on ya...

yer thanks

[75coupe]

no worries....

[GTRBOS]

Take it easy uleh. The reality is you've tanked your cash if you're expecting a performance increase.

But it's your cash, do what you want. BTW bro, mait is spelt mate.

im relaxed bro but i dont like when people give attitude, orite mistake me if im wrong but not go on and be a towards me, i dont want to start shit here, i just started up a new topic trying to get some info from gus like you not bloody attitude and childish people like that, thanks for the reply bro, ill just get more mods to the car then get the fmic installed,

cheers mate

[GTRBOS]

no worries....

u seriously need some sleep

[STATUS]

r32 cooler std is not too bad, not much use over 300rwkw but the later 34 ones are good for a bit more, i use the same trust core you just bought on the car in our avatar and spent alot of time on the dyno playing with ECU's and doing datalogs on three coolers (std, JJR and the TRUST 115mm one). i noticed whilst tuning it that the inlet temps are far more stable even over about 20-25 dyno pulls... the equivalent of road/circuit driving. The std one was pretty shit after about 10 pulls. the more stable inlet temps allowed more agressive tuning and more power. if you were to tune for one run on each cooler though they would pull the same power but after about the 10th pull with an aggressive tune and std cooler you would be well down on power due to the inlet temp ignition retard map winding in.

dont pay to much attention to the knockers on here, half of them just regurgitate shit they have heard or read.... not real world experience. i gaurantee your car with the trust cooler and a decent tune will be making peak power for more laps around a track (or more strip sessions and dyno pulls) than the same car with the std cooler.

[Ionos]

dont pay to much attention to the knockers on here, half of them just regurgitate shit they have heard or read.... not real world experience. i gaurantee your car with the trust cooler and a decent tune will be making peak power for more laps around a track (or more strip sessions and dyno pulls) than the same car with the std cooler.

Now that's uncalled for.

You talk about 'real world experience'. Do you think this guy is building a car purely to use on the track? 99% of people on here use their cars as their daily drivers.

For a streeter, a 100mm core making 240kw atw is completely unnecessary. When he makes bigger power, sure, but for now he's better sticking with the stock cooler.

Edited December 20, 2007 by Ionos

[75coupe]

Whats the bet this is street driving and not going to spend 20K getting the car up to the sort of power that requires another cooler...

bro...

[GTRBOS]

Whats the bet this is street driving and not going to spend 20K getting the car up to the sort of power that requires another cooler...

bro...

lol and how do you know that im not going to pump 15-20gz in this thing, man what do you know about me, your nothing but a low life, get over yourself and mature up, you call me a lil kid, its like youve known me for about 10years here, and by the way read abit more in the topic, im going to be purchasing the turbos, bigger cams, injectors, pump and stuff like that in the next few months

BROOO..........

[GeeTR]

im relaxed bro but i dont like when people give attitude, orite mistake me if im wrong but not go on and be a towards me...

Hey man,

People spend a lot of time and effort witting comprehensive threads / posts with the intention of adding to this great forum. It should be treated like a library, where you search for information, before asking an orig question or topic. You can imagine then that ppl get a little narky when new ppl ask Q's that they themselves might have covered extensively before

Anyways, tuning! - its all bout how much the power or refinement your willing to pay for. If you can find someone who's experienced with FC's to tidy the tune up for around $200, i would do it, even if you are getting cams installed, and getting it tuned in another few months, having the tuner wind some more ignition in down low and trim some fuel out up top will make the car that much more fun and punchy to drive.

[GTRBOS]

Hey man,

People spend a lot of time and effort witting comprehensive threads / posts with the intention of adding to this great forum. It should be treated like a library, where you search for information, before asking an orig question or topic. You can imagine then that ppl get a little narky when new ppl ask Q's that they themselves might have covered extensively before

Anyways, tuning! - its all bout how much the power or refinement your willing to pay for. If you can find someone who's experienced with FC's to tidy the tune up for around $200, i would do it, even if you are getting cams installed, and getting it tuned in another few months, having the tuner wind some more ignition in down low and trim some fuel out up top will make the car that much more fun and punchy to drive.

thank you very much bro, ill leave it to my mechanic, hill tell me what i need to do anyway,

cheers mate

[GTR-80Y]

r32 cooler std is not too bad, not much use over 300rwkw but the later 34 ones are good for a bit more, i use the same trust core you just bought on the car in our avatar and spent alot of time on the dyno playing with ECU's and doing datalogs on three coolers (std, JJR and the TRUST 115mm one). i noticed whilst tuning it that the inlet temps are far more stable even over about 20-25 dyno pulls... the equivalent of road/circuit driving. The std one was pretty shit after about 10 pulls. the more stable inlet temps allowed more agressive tuning and more power. if you were to tune for one run on each cooler though they would pull the same power but after about the 10th pull with an aggressive tune and std cooler you would be well down on power due to the inlet temp ignition retard map winding in.

How did u guys find the JJR cooler? I'm getting to the limits of the std core now and find the inlet temps are up and easily 50+ degrees in traffic. Wat are normal inlet temps for the gtr say for normal driving and after 10 power runs?

[GeeTR]

How did u guys find the JJR cooler? I'm getting to the limits of the std core now and find the inlet temps are up and easily 50+ degrees in traffic. Wat are normal inlet temps for the gtr say for normal driving and after 10 power runs?

No air->air IC is going to help your cooler temps in traffic man. Inlet temps will be based on too many things i would think to compare apples and apples.

[oh-low]

No air->air IC is going to help your cooler temps in traffic man. Inlet temps will be based on too many things i would think to compare apples and apples.

Will piping contribute a factor regarding to inlet temp?

[GTR-80Y]

Agreed IC does nothing in traffic, but in regards to sitting in traffic and then moving again, my inlet temps seem to never recover.

[Sydneykid]

r32 cooler std is not too bad, not much use over 300rwkw but the later 34 ones are good for a bit more, i use the same trust core you just bought on the car in our avatar and spent alot of time on the dyno playing with ECU's and doing datalogs on three coolers (std, JJR and the TRUST 115mm one). i noticed whilst tuning it that the inlet temps are far more stable even over about 20-25 dyno pulls... the equivalent of road/circuit driving. The std one was pretty shit after about 10 pulls. the more stable inlet temps allowed more agressive tuning and more power. if you were to tune for one run on each cooler though they would pull the same power but after about the 10th pull with an aggressive tune and std cooler you would be well down on power due to the inlet temp ignition retard map winding in.

dont pay to much attention to the knockers on here, half of them just regurgitate shit they have heard or read.... not real world experience. i gaurantee your car with the trust cooler and a decent tune will be making peak power for more laps around a track (or more strip sessions and dyno pulls) than the same car with the std cooler.

My experience has been that 20 to 25 pulls on the dyno is way more heat producing than a 20 minute race. Why? Because the airlfow from a dyno fan is nowhere near what you get on a circuit at 200 kph, which is what you are doing on the dyno. We run 2 dyno fans and it still doesn't get anywhere near that temperature on any track we have raced on.

Back on subject, by adding too large an intercooler, which is exactly what you (tony_nivin) are doing. The higher volume of air that there is between the turbo/turbos and the throttle bodies, the more lag you have. So what you are going to end up with is lots more throttle lag for no real power benefit. When you do the other stuff (to increase the power) then the air flow will increase proportionally and you will find you get back some of the lost throttle response. If you have matched the power level to the intercooler (and pipework) size correctly, then you will end up with pretty much standard response times.

Yes, Toto you can have too big an intercooler.

Merry Xmas

Gary

[GTRBOS]

OK GUYS SO WHAT DO YOUS GUYS WRECKEN, SHOULD I GET THIS COOLER FITTED ON NOW AND GET A TUNE OR WHAT??? PLEASE LET ME KNOW

[SirRacer]

Can the grammar police can this guy?

[GTRBOS]

Can the grammar police can this guy?

lol wat u mean by that mate, anyway close this subject, dont want no more comments, merry xmas evryone

Edited December 22, 2007 by tony_nivin

[SLIPPERY]

i reckon leave as is....sell the cooler if youve bought it already and have a merry xmas spending that coin!

[rev210]

leave the intercooler in the shed for now, till you really need it or at least are close to the date you are going to the upgraded turbos etc..