Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I know that everyone is sick of seeing people ask what will fit on their car, and yes, I've read through the Wheel Offset guide and the 'Real life' fitment thread.

The only problem is, is that I have a 1% negative feeling that makes throwing a lot of money at rims so very difficult.

Could someone please let me know whether any of these 2 sizes below will fit an R33 Series 2 GTST WITHOUT using spacers:

18 x 8 +36 (front)

18 x 9 +35 (rear)

--And--

18 x 8 +36 (front)

18 x 9 +36 (rear)

Thanks heaps if you can guys, again, sorry for this post as i know everyone is tired of them. I'm more tired of wasting money on incorrect parts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198524-offset-fitment/
Share on other sites

they will fit without any issues. they only issue you may have is dependant on the design of the spokes. if the spokes are stright u may find that it just touches the calipers. sinething with a slight curve is best

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198524-offset-fitment/#findComment-3544853
Share on other sites

GT-C's are f**kin expensive brand new. I know where you're coming from when you say you don't want to spend heaps of cash on wheels that don't fit.

With the disk type, you can look at the raysengineering site and they should have a list of different face designs. It ranges from I think it was H for high, M medium and L for low. The lower one would give you the most dish, but less brake clearance, higher face type, more for brake clearance. The list should also tell you if they'll clear the 4 pot brakes. From what I can remember, it was M for the front and L for the rears and they'll fit, BUT make sure for yourself or email them.

Good luck with it and post up some pics when they arrive.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198524-offset-fitment/#findComment-3545486
Share on other sites

Thanks Adam,

The GT-Cs are second hand but barely a scratch on them..

They have the numbers on the back stamped:

18 x 8.0 J (A-E) of. +36 PCD114.3 5H GL

18 x 9.0 J (C-O) of. +35 PCD114.3 5H GL

So judging by your explanation of the letter H, M and L; I have either H (5H) or L (GL) which puts me back where I was..confused.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198524-offset-fitment/#findComment-3545513
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...