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Where To Run Boost Line For Gauge Into Cabin?

rubba

By rubba,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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rubba Enthusiast

rubba

Posted
Posted

Got myself a gauge and had a look today... where can you run it through the firewall? I looked for a good while but came up with nothing.

It's not that easy to poke around behind the engine as theres sfa room and from inside I couldn't see any grommets to pass it through. The accelerator cable would've been a perfect spot if there was a grommet there but its a steel plate :laugh:

Theres so much extra plastic paneling everywhere it makes it really hard to find sneaky spots to route things, they are generally too much of a bitch to remove as well for just a quick look... so many screws! I'd rather find out where to look specifically from one of you guys than spend half the day dissembling shit for no reason.

On an unrelated note I now see or rather hear why some of you said to avoid a pod filter, it was a Christmas present from my bro... I told him panel filter but he got talked into a pod so I figured I'd just install it and see what all the fuss is about... DAAAAAAAYMN its loud! Anything above 2k and it starts to sound like a jet and the factory bov is now very obvious. Might be a good thing though, will save me some fuel trying to keep it quiet :)

I am pretty handy so I might try and build some kind of enclosure for it to live in.

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted
Got myself a gauge and had a look today... where can you run it through the firewall? I looked for a good while but came up with nothing.

It's not that easy to poke around behind the engine as theres sfa room and from inside I couldn't see any grommets to pass it through. The accelerator cable would've been a perfect spot if there was a grommet there but its a steel plate :(

Theres so much extra plastic paneling everywhere it makes it really hard to find sneaky spots to route things, they are generally too much of a bitch to remove as well for just a quick look... so many screws! I'd rather find out where to look specifically from one of you guys than spend half the day dissembling shit for no reason.

On an unrelated note I now see or rather hear why some of you said to avoid a pod filter, it was a Christmas present from my bro... I told him panel filter but he got talked into a pod so I figured I'd just install it and see what all the fuss is about... DAAAAAAAYMN its loud! Anything above 2k and it starts to sound like a jet and the factory bov is now very obvious. Might be a good thing though, will save me some fuel trying to keep it quiet :)

I am pretty handy so I might try and build some kind of enclosure for it to live in.

do a search this had been asked soooo many times now.. But ill help this time :)

feed it through the drivers side gaurd and under there push it through the grommet that goes into the cabin for the bonnet cable and lots of the wiring. It comes out under the kickpanel area in the car and around the accelerator area.

rubba Enthusiast

rubba

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did actually search but really there weren't really any conclusive answer on exactly where to go from the engine bay to the cabin. I did see the drivers guard mentioned once by yokotas.

I guess that means I gotta remove the plastic panel inside the guard. Are there any hidden catches holding the kickpanel on? I really briefly tried to remove it today, pulled back the weatherstrip and undid the plastic nut next to the accel pedal but it still seemed held on there pretty solid.

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted
I did actually search but really there weren't really any conclusive answer on exactly where to go from the engine bay to the cabin. I did see the drivers guard mentioned once by yokotas.

I guess that means I gotta remove the plastic panel inside the guard. Are there any hidden catches holding the kickpanel on? I really briefly tried to remove it today, pulled back the weatherstrip and undid the plastic nut next to the accel pedal but it still seemed held on there pretty solid.

the kickpanel trim is only held on by some clips so just pry it off carefully, though the clips are nice and solid and wont generally break off unless u are really rough. remove inside gaurd trim yes and u will see it easy enough, i can take a pic right now if u really need it as my trim under the gaurd is off and has never been reinstalled lol. I can get a pic of the kickpanel trim too if u wanna see the location of the clips?

let me know mate and hope it is of some help :)

rubba Enthusiast

rubba

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah if they are already off it would be appreciated.

I saw the clip things and thats pretty much what stopped me pulling it off earlier today just incase it didn't help my cause.

Pulling out the airbox was a lot harder than I originally anticipated, mega fused on nuts/screws and not having a long enough socket extension bar. I got there in the end though with a lot of cursing :) Couldn't get the sender unit unclipped from the AFM either so that didn't help.

Edited by rubba
RS4StagMan Rising Star

RS4StagMan

Posted
Posted

I poked mine through the accelerator cable bracket with the 4mm hard plastic vacuum line supplied with my TT/boost gauge.

There was also a rubber washer type thing between the steel plate and the fire wall so I could tighten up the whole thing pretty well with no kinking or air flow restriction occurring.

After getting through the firewall with the plastic vacuum line I fed the line straight into the internal diameter of a standard rubber vaccum hose (the standard rubber vaccum hose was about 8mm overall diameter from memory).

There should be a spare vacuum nipple on the drivers side of the intake manifold towards the firewall as well for connecting and measuring the intake vacuum/boost.

If you have no success with the alternative method the others have described through the side kick panel etc, the above method also works a treat provided you can get a short length of the correct diameter hard plastic tubing (just for going thru the firewall) that fits wholey inside standard vacuum line.

Hope this helps- enjoy your boost monitoring!

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

yeah there is a big grommet with the main wiring loom that you can see easy as soon as the driver's side front wheel's plastic guard is off. It comes through just above the accelerator.

rubba Enthusiast

rubba

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

It's all good I found the big rubber grommet thing inside the wheel arch.

I spent half of yesterday pulling bits of my car apart, I figured while I was there I may as well see how hard it was to get the center console etc out to get at the headunit as I have had a JVC USB unit sitting in my room for 6 months. The guide in the DIY section is spot on and it all came out fairly easily.

Surround of the headunit doesn't fit without cutting most of the edges off, so I ended up just leaving it off and putting the unit at the bottom which looks acceptable to me. I covered the hole with a piece of cardboard with foam glued to the front until I can find a pocket/blank plate to fit.

For now the boost gauge just sits under the boot release zip tied to some little clips that have always been there on my car. Works great and isn't that far out of the way, just glance down through the lower corner of the steering wheel to see it. Going to get one of the Mearcat gauge pods to eventually relocate it to the A pillar corner. Any advice here on how to run the wiring/boost line up to that? Through the small top vent looks ideal but how to get it there I got no clue.

Heres a pic of my finished product for now.

headunit-boost.jpg

Mega thanks to all you guys who supplied the how to stuff :D

Edited by rubba

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