Jump to content
SAU Community

Blown Gasket On Rb26 - What Parts To Get To Strengthened While Im At It?


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i just blew the head gasket in my rb26 engine (r33 gtr), im going to get it all rebuilt and was wondering the best parts to get while it's all out?, thinking of strengthening everything i can...im after a strong street car able to handle close to 650hp.....

what size/type gasket to get, and also other things to buy at the same time while its all out?, maybe rod bolts etc.....whats the good stuff to buy for these engines to make them way more reliable for the street(daily driven)

cheers.

HKS Metal head gasket, or if you're going for a full build for 650hp, try this (all prices from greenline):

TOMEI Forged Piston Kit 86.5mm - $1420

Argo Forged Conrods - $1100

TOMEI Poncam Camshaft and Pulley Kit Type B - $900

TRUST Timing Belt Cover - $75

TOMEI Gasket Kit 87mm 8.6 comp - $380

TRUST Oil Pan Upgrade Kit - $370

TOMEI Conrod bearings - $210

Valve guides - $400

Head service - $450

Pressure test - $55

Remove and resit vavle guides - $240

Will be more if you need oil/water pumps and more extensive headwork.

Edited by Brockaz

Cheers mate, im pricing up everything right now, im thinking of doing it all right the first time.....what headgaskets are good for street rb26dett, that are strong for up to 600hp max....i think that would be my goal - 500-600hp max and for street, responsive car. Theres so many different sizes for the headgaskets, and i guess the forged pistons will have to match this size too? or not??? Wanting to order everything asap as i need the kit fast.

Yes if you go for oversized pistons, say 86.5mm, you will need an 87mm bore head gasket.

Head gasket choice will be affected by piston choice.

If you go for tomei 86.5mm pistons, go for a tomei 87mm head gasket.

if you go for HKS 87mm pistons, go for a HKS 87.5mm head gasket.

I'd chose both 1.2mm thick.

Thanks:), manage to do half of it today - will be finishing the second half tommorow, and get it taken to specialists to check the head for cracks, warped head etc....

Can i check the bore size using like a vernadial? - so basically .5mm difference in gasket size is alright to do(so long as it's .5mm increase?), and do i need to seal the gasket with anything, ive been searching the forums, alot of people say metal head gaskets don't need to be sealed with any sort of sealant, others reccomend it be done....

P.S: I have wiseco pistons already (as per the rebuild notes - i will confirm this tommorow when head is apart though)...

Question ive been dying to ask, and one that i had removed not so long ago when posting a thread(even though io searched alot of times)....

What is the stock rb26 compression ratio and gasket thickness?....

And why would i go say 1.2mm over say 1mm? - for a car aiming not for high hp, but street response and around the 300awkw-320awkw maybe down the line max...what compression ratio would suit?.

Either way im really thinking of going the 1.2mm route now anyways, after searching miliions of threads on this topic:)

Thanks for all the help!

Edited by nsta

Hey - the tomei head gasket kit comes with a oil restrictor gallery orifice.....is this something that the specialists needs to do when dissembling the head - or something that i could do myself when putting the mototr back together once the heads been tested/repaired?

Head nearly off - intake side all done, just oding the last bits of the exh side tommorow - do the turbos need to come off to remove the head?, or could we get away with removing the exh manifolds from the turbos and leave the turbos intact?

Also, i had a very hard time with the Oil/water feed lines on the exh side, as whoever tightened the nuts last, done them extremely tight!!!, we ended up having to pull the whole feed out from around the back of the head....in the process the lines had bent abit, but i assume we can bend them back into shape and all is ok? other than that no real dramas.

Thanks.

You will need to completely strip it anyway to get it cleaned, checked and bored. My advice is get a couple of cardboard boxes and put the head stuff in 1, exhaust in 1, intake in 1 and front stuff in another box.

It took me approx 5hrs to do the top and sides and half the front. Considering I have no idea what most of the parts are and I had to go and buy some tools to get afew bolts undone I was happy with the effort (and saved money at the same time).

Hahah im in the same boat, just going bit by bit trying to figure it all out one by one - not that hard so long as i make sure i do i go by manual - and do it all by the book i guess.....timing belt may be something ill take my time to do.

thanks.

hi mate, my old 26 was 620bhp @ the fly. homebuilt here is the spec.

block bored to suit cp forged pistons, std rods,

std crank acl bearings, n1 oil/wtaer pumps.

hks 25/30,s @ 1.5 bar tomei turbo elbows, decat 3.5" full system

720ccinj, tomei in tank pump, hks fuel adj reg.

1.2mm tomei headgasket and restrictor fitted

jun stage one cams 264/272 9.7mm lift.

apexi power fc d-jetro

made 612bhp and 450lbs @ the fly

hope that helps.

p.s std rods are good for 650bhp tops.

Edited by rockabilly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...