Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hellloooo everyone!

Ok guys to go with the new turbo... hopefully getting done VERY soon! I am chasingf after the upgrade fuel pump and injectors... probably will bew going for about 320 rwhp.

I am a bit strapped for cash at the moment and am chasing a reliable yet nicely priced fuel pump thats not noisy! whats the one that coventrys do? bosch is it?

Also what injectors will fit? is it true about the rx7 ones fitting our cars? how much for them?

I'm not interested in a malpassi fuel regulator.

SteveSST - i am getting my turbo from Grant at Performanz, Are you able to get hold of some well priced injectors such as the rx7 ones and fuel pump if so i will get you to install everything....

ideas anyone???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19915-fuel-pump-and-injectors-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Yeah but where do i get fuel pump from and how much??

injectors will be maxing out around 300 rwhp so even with ecu still need new injectors. which ones are good and well priced... not interested in fuel reg... ave now heard of lots of probs with them....

Call Robert Butler on 9276 0111. This guy knows Bosch pumps inside out.. I got prices for the 044 (800hp and a bit noisy) for my car @ $375. The 040 which does 102ltr/hour is $260...

The 910 does 126ltr/hour is $193.75.

Just remember if you ring anyone up looking for bosch pumps you have to have 0 580 254 (***) before the pump model. EG 0 580 254 044 for the 044 obviously..

Hope this helps...

Brett

Dan

As Brett said the bosch pumps are sweet. I had the 910 in my R33 and will be putting one in my WRX, only thing Dan is they are loud. So maybe you should look at a Walbro pump, they are quieter.

Daniel

cool, any ideas on the walbro pump? how much and where do i get them from?

Oh also Dan did you get your bosch from coventry's in morley?

If so i will ring up coventrys and ask for bosch fuel pump 0 580 254 910

$193 aint bad for a pump..

Why is the 040 more expensive than the 910 when it pumps less petrol? any reason in particular?

Do you guys recon the injectors will last at 320ish rwhp? just spoke to Grant at performanz and he said he has seen some doing 370rwhp on standard injectors! YAY!!

Yes, coventry's morley....

I think the 910 is cheaper because of its shear size and age. They are bloody big and have been around for many years (just an opinion not a conclusive answer).

Dan I have also heard that stock injectors start maxing out around the 300hp mark, so 370 sounds a little excessive.

Daniel

Cool fuel pump sorted.. thanks for that Lads, (Dan,Brett,Dave) Will give conventrys a call ASAP and pick it up on Friday!

Now injectors and I am done.... anyone have any ideas... i do have the Apex ITC (Ignition Timing controller) so injectors should be ok Dave, if i did go the rx7 injectors then how much and what is a good fuel rail?

any other ideas on the injectors situation?? i am just worried about pistons going wrongs if fuel management is not sorted out 100% there is no way i can afford forgies right now i don't want to risk things going wrong when having a more powerful turbo...

going for the hi flow.... 16psi should be ok to be running it on yeah? or is 14psi more engine friendly... keep in mind guys even though my car has been in shows it is still an every day driver and needs longevity!

Dan,

I just bought a set of Sard 700cc's from greenline and they were pretty good compared to most other jap brands. Not sure of the price on RX7 injectors but Bosch make some good ones too I'm told but you need resistors etc to get them to work properly. Are you running standard ecu with the add ons like the ITC?? For my own piece of mind I'd be upgrading to something a little more 'secure'...

Car sounds like it'll rip even harder now..

Brett

Sorry to hijack the thread for a sec but does the 910 fit in the standard fuel pump mount?

When fitting a bigger pump do you need to take into account surge tanks or anything? If not - I'm buying one of these babys this week! :)

Now injectors and I am done.... anyone have any ideas... i do have the Apex ITC (Ignition Timing controller) so injectors should be ok Dave, if i did go the rx7 injectors then how much and what is a good fuel rail?  

a timing controller aint gunnah help you control your injectors...

the 910 is a good choice, and yes cam it does fit in the std bracket with a bit of modification. youve got to worry about low/hish impedance when looking at rx7/rx3 injectors. a mate of mine with a VL put these in his car, and just driving around for a few days before tuning ruined his engine as the injectors were spraying so much fuel it glazed the bores.

25GTT, I'd go for Walbro pump if noise is a concern. They are drop in replcements (or close to) for upto 255L/hr. Prices compareable or better than Bosch pumps.

When you talk about power goals, can you translate it into power at the engine... I don't understand rear wheel figures. If 320rwhp is all you want, I have a dyno sheet of a 25t on stock injectors that does that. Mine. Dyno's differ huge amounts and rear wheel figures are mostly irrelevant.

Stock injectors are good for 370bhp at standard fuel pressure (engine power), or up to ~400bhp if fuel pressure is cranked to the limit. And you'll probably want something a little better than a s-afc to control new injectors with. My advice would be to setup the new turbo on low boost with the stock injectors and bide your time till you can find/afford new injectors and a pfc (if you want >400bhp).

dan/adam - what sort of mods are you talking here? drilling an extra hole or making a new mount to suit? I'd have to install mine myself due to the nature of the stereo in the boot and my distrusting nature... :D

Dan - jiggling? Somehow I just can't imagine you "jiggling".. :D From what you've said it seems like it should be a relatively easy changeover then.

Righto - seems I have a mission for this weekend - fit 910 fuel pump at garage malaga for cool noise and more fuel capacity when I get a regulator.

Thanks for the info. Sorry for hijacking your thread 25GTT.. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...