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Turbo Rebuild Q's

FelixTRX

By FelixTRX,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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FelixTRX Community Regular

FelixTRX

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I'm hoping somebody here can point me in the right direction.

I have (had) a R34 Neo turbo with a metal front wheel. When re-doing my FMIC pipe work, my mate left some rubber inside my pod and the turbo sucked it up and chewed the front wheel pretty badly. Turbo still spins fine, just makes no boost and a strange whistling sound (I'm guessing from the buggered front blades).

Now, my mate has admitted fault to this, and is helping out with getting this fixed, but I want to know what my options are. I'd love to keep this turbo as it's really nice on my RB20 Silvertop but it comes down to $$$. How much is involved in replacing the front wheel with what was there? I've been told I can replace the internals with that from a R33 turbo. Or am I going to have to get it rebuilt professionally (in Melbourne or Tassie preferred).

I have tried to search for the info I'm after but not really sure what I'm searching for! :)

Thanks in advance for your input.

Cheers, Greg.

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R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Well all depends what's wrong mate.

If its caused more than just damage to the wheel (cartridge/bearings/shaft might be damaged) then your basically fully rebuilding it.

Cost should be ~$1100 for a ball bearing rebuild (full).

If its just the wheel then its probably 400-500 for the wheel, rebalance the whole turbo and so on. Basically half.

Your best bet is GCG to rebuild it (SYD), they have the best gear in the country from memory.

There is NO way you can do it at home in your backyard :)

FelixTRX Community Regular

FelixTRX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for your advice guys. For the kind of money mentioned, I can buy a new turbo and sell off the one I have to re-coupe some of the costs, and still come out of it cheaper. Bearing in mind, my motor rarely see's more than 6k and I've never run more than 10psi, don't drag or drift. It's just a work shitter to take me welder and gear to and from work sites! Thus, I don't really care if it's not the ultimate in what can be brought, it just has to be functional.

Have been offered this for $450 with all the lines needed to bolt onto my manifold. I know it's a bit big for a RB20 but I have a 3L in the building stage as we speak.

Cheers, Greg.

post-22822-1198921455_thumb.jpg

R33fourdoor Enthusiast

R33fourdoor

Posted
Posted
Just buy a second hand R33 stock turbo. Cheapest option and will run for years at 10psi.

Subie they bolt straight on.

I agree.

Besides, doesn't the T04E require an external wastegate, hence new manifold.....$$$$ etc?

FelixTRX Community Regular

FelixTRX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Subie, Neo turbo was already fitted to the car when I got it.

And for some reason, my Neo is running with an external gate. Don't know how or why, but I'll get some pics when I get home tonight. This might make a V-band type turbo easier as all I have to do is adapt my dump pipe to suit.

As for response, I don't have a drama in getting something that is boosting by 2000-2500rpm and runs out of puff by 5000-5500rpm. 7k limiters are for drifters! Any recomendations?

Cheers, Greg.

FelixTRX Community Regular

FelixTRX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Have found a R33 turbo for $320 delivered so I think I'll go for that, and sell off the dmaaged Neo turbo I have to make back some of the cost.

It'll fix my immediate problem and should do what I want it to do with a 30DET, lots of grunt down low and not spin the bugger past 6-6.5k! I'm just not one of those 'live on the limiter' kinda guys! :D

But thanks for all your advice. It was all taken in and listened to.

Cheers, Greg.

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