Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

forget the term boost jet and call it what it actually is. A "Restrictor"

its a small piece of steel tube that is fittted snuggly inside the actuator supply line from the manifold.

it has a smaller hole in the middle approx 2.5 - 3mm compared to the 6mm rubber line.

im running one in conjunction with my PFCBC and a 18psi actuator and i have no issues controlling boost up to 27psi.

ramps onto boost hard, and then stays within 1psi to redline.

and just to clarify an earlier remark in regards to increasing boost can make it come on sooner.

if your target level is close or just past your actuator tension, then your internal gate flap will allready be opening before you reach your target boost as to control the clime in pressure. If you were to run a heavier actuator and run higher boost then the flap will stay completely shut for longer causing it to ramp up harder and earlier.

not 1000rpm sooner but certainly 100 - 300rpm sooner.

What I do is I start with a brass t piece. Solder the third leg closed. Then I use my micro drill bits used for drilling electronics like printed circuit boards. I just start drilling bigger until I get the right boost. Either that, or start big and solder it and go smaller.

soldering the brass is very easy. that way you don't have to keep buying nozels.

the t piece costs like $2.

It works without an aftermarket ecu. Just get rid of the stock solenoid.

Either that, or get a jaycar iebc and use it to control the solenoid (and use a restrictor to control the boost level).

The jaycar iebc will allow you to have the quickest possible boost build and best control over the boost curve compared to any ebc out there.

my gtr runs a Tee'd off little peice of silicone hose with a utilux bullet head clamped inside with a hole in the end. 13 psi.

Now thats a cheap ass controller!

"Clamped" Huh

look like zip ties to me.

back yard racing FTW.. lol

mine is an internal restricor inside the feed line. i dont have a T peice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...