Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

34small.jpg

when your dealing with the x over pipe like this you have f**k all room for an airbox, so the washer bottle needs to be removed to create some more room.

hence why i am going to make the arc style one used on the 33 and 34 gtr. but i beleive i will combine catch radiator overflow and washer bottle all in one. and an airbox to fit in the position.

i will get around to doing this kit quiet soon anyone interested ;):)

Edited by Angus Smart
mate u got any more pics of that catch can??? also would u make me one?? if so how much

Ive got some more pics at home, as im at work at the moment. Thanks for the interest, but im flat out doing my own stuff.

Its pretty easy to do.

Shaun.

A few things:

If you want a smaller battery get yourself a drycell. I have a Deka Powersport 365CCA & it spins the motor up nicely as well as being much smaller than the usual lead acid job. Not cheap, but worth checking out.

With regards to Cams I understand it is only log booked cars that HAVE to comply with the catch can sizing. I have not seen a car knocked back at a hill climb or similar for having a weiner catch can.

Pat attention to how you will drain the catch can of oil. If it isn't fabbed right you will just spill stuff everywhere & probably burn yourself into the bargain.

Pay some attention to how you will vent the oily air coming out of the catch can. Last thing you need is an engine bay full of oil stinking half burnt oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...