Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

To educate Joe-public about Skylines and to show what sort of cars we have on our stand, we want to place a 'spec sheet' on the windscreen. This can nicely cover your rego sticker :rolleyes:

For the 18 cars entering, I need the following:

Make

Year

Model

Spec

Colour

Power

ie: Make = Nissan

Year = 1997

Model = R33 Skyline

Spec = GTR VSpec

Colour = Midnight Purple Pearl

Power = ??? rwkw

Rather than list mods (and attract the wrong type of attention) we are going to have a 'fire danger' type scale with:

0% = Rice

25% = Stock style

50% = Dori dori weapon

75% = Wangan express

100% = Ichiban

If people can put a value where they think their car falls - I'll make up sheets for all the cars.

Granted - not all cars are Skylines (a couple of 180's and Sils) but we have at least 1 of each R31-R34 in a 2WD and 4WD model (no 4WD R31s though - your next project maybe Ash?)

The best thing - only 2 are 'showy' the rest are power focused :rofl:

like we spoke about...

Make : Nissan

Year : 1987

Model : R31 Coupe

Spec : GTS-R Limited Build

Colour : Navy Blue

Power : 230-250rwkw (get boost tomorrow @ BMT)

Then i'd class mine as

75% = Wangan express

Nothing is untouched in my car :rofl:

It just doesnt have a spastic 300rwkw+ power figure... YET :D

And as for 4wd... well... you never know :rolleyes:

Originally posted by acsplit

ash you already got a sign board made up f00l :rolleyes:

james the 3 r31's will have signs with there details on them already sorted

Oh yeah...f rogot aobut that!

but those details sounded very similar... and in a very similar format to the Entry Details forms we had to fill out, i thought we needed it specifically to put in the show.

at least that's been cleared up.

Justin Case, here's mine:

Make : Nissan

Year : 1998

Model : R34 Skyline Coupe

Spec : GTT

Colour : Black

Power : 700rwkw @ 7100rpm with 10psi boost

Either 25% or 50% - cant decide, fairly stock car kinda :)

BTW, good idea James, I was actually thinking of putting up a dyno graph but then thought it was a bit too wanky...

Cheers,

Dale.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...