Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks good mate, who built it? and what specs?

Just a thought, while the motor is out, to put an oil return from the back of the head to the sump.. will help a lot with oil control.

Cheers

Johno

due to the size of the sump its not required, also the oil return galleries have been enlarged. This mod (external return) is mainly needed when larger volume pumps are used with STD size sumps i.e. to stop them being emptied at high revs.

colour is candy apple red...although it looks orange in pics...much deeper and darker in real life.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201880-rb26/#findComment-3586840
Share on other sites

Its got everything i think

Mahle Pistons

Tomei cams 280 10.5mm lift

Eagle rods

Hypertune Plenum

N1 block

Nitto valves

Tomei buckets & springs

Head work

R33 crank Grubbed screwed

Greddy oil pump

700cc Injectors

Greddy fuel rail

HKS T04Z

Trust manifold & Wastegaste

Should make some good numbers i hope any1 wanna make a estimate on power going 2 run 30psi or 32 pound if turbo can handle on race fuel once run in

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201880-rb26/#findComment-3586866
Share on other sites

700-750 on 30psi

700 is over 500KW...750 is 550KW....you are kidding right...probably make around 450KW. But Dave is using the best tuner in Aust. for the numbers so it might go higher. At least it will have a good spread of power and most importantly torque.

and im sure it will chirp 2nd!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201880-rb26/#findComment-3587387
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...