Jump to content
SAU Community

Howzit Guys!

¯ڑôhàññ隯

By ¯ڑôhàññ隯,
in Introduce yourself

 Share

Recommended Posts

¯ڑôhàññ隯 Rookie

¯ڑôhàññ隯

Posted
Posted

What's up people we all love Skylines so we have something in common right there, awesome cars for sure aren't they!

Been in aussie 2 years originally from South Africa also lived in NZ for 6 years and yer, you can call me JJ :)

I gotta say there are definitely some nice Skylines in AUS, but I also have to admit that I'm stabbin myself in the foot for not buying 1 over there and bringing it with me, I'd have saved a tonne. Cars here are hell expensive wtf?

Anyway, just bought an auto R33 HR33 (RB20E) bring on the whining - hahaha I know (at least it came with a GTR front bar and mags, choice aye LOL). Only bought it because I could get it pretty cheap and I want the R33 body. Plans are to either shove a RB25DE in it and add a massive turbo or just, depending on the finances, dump a RB26DETT in there. Obviously will have to do the suspension as well, 4 -> 5 stud wheel conversion + brakes, engine management and perhaps a few other little things. The work won't be done by me as I don't have time.. I'm interested in what you all think about it, obviously knowing the aus car scene better than me. I'm actually looking for a RB25DE with manual gearbox at the moment, so if there are any known cheap places out there to pick them up, or for jap parts/engines in general, please let me know. Based in QLD but not worried about paying freight or whatever. Depending on the replies in this thread I might make another thread, look forward to hearing what everyone has to say. Cheers :(

PS: Also wondering how much the engine conversion including the cost of the engine (say for the RB25DE just to start off with) would cost, and prices for any of the other mods as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201981-howzit-guys/
Share on other sites
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

buying an RB20E equipped R33's an interesting choice... esp since the price difference between them and an R33 GTSt or even a GTS25 is around $1000 to $2000... much less than what an engine swap will cost you.

As for upgrades... an RB30ET would be my engine of choice, simply because putting an RB30E or RB30ET into an RB20E equipped car is very very easy. Whereas with a DOHC you have to change the loom and everything. Lotta VL guys are getting good power out of SOHC RB30ET's, plenty of cheap parts, and best of all you get to run around with a "holden" rocker cover and freak everyone out when you pop the bonnet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201981-howzit-guys/#findComment-3590583
Share on other sites
¯ڑôhàññ隯 Rookie

¯ڑôhàññ隯

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Mmmm well I was lookin on ebay, carsales, carpoint you name it for about 3 weeks and I couldn't find a single skyline for sale under 5grand, or listed for that I should say. I also checked redbook and it seems their private sale prices are pretty hectic, real high. Round here there aren't many cars that sell for cheap if you get what I'm sayin, have 2 go to brizzy to find them. I doubt that a R33 GTS[T] can be found for 6-7 grand, I paid 5 for it - I dont have any contacts on the scene here either so it's not really something doable for me. Even if so I'm on my P's and with the QLD laws, there's not much I can do to get around the "no turbo" bullshit. Didn't really have a choice.

If you ask me doing an engine conversion with a reasonably fresh RB25DE will cost less than buying one (with high KM's that has been thrashed) and even if not, I'll know it HASN'T been thrashed and that it has just been put in, no hassles anytime soon down the track. I'm kinda tempted to try find a VQ35DE (the 180kW version) from a 350Z, love the way the revs climb up + sound is nicer than a RB25DE[t] as well, to me anyway. Not to mention I'll be clearing all the laws (specifically the no turbo and 200kW N/A restrictions) and be sitting with a pretty unique ride with heaps of power. Aint after a SOHC there's more to it than just costs mate - and I'm not exactly a holden fanatic either put it that way, but thanks for the suggestion aye :)

Edited by ¯ڑôhàññ隯
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201981-howzit-guys/#findComment-3591685
Share on other sites
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

an R33 GTS is the regular R33 with RB20E SOHC engine. an R33 GTS25 is the one with an RB25DE, but there's virtually no R33 GTS's in the country (they all came in under the old CPA import scheme where there was no power to weight requirement) so everyone pretty much assumes when you say R33 GTS you're actually talking about an R33 GTS25.

Ah didn't realise you were on your P's... in that case RB25DE might be the way to go, but I like your VQ35DE idea a lot, I've been toying with putting one in my R32. Its a great engine. 5K is a pretty good buy, but you also have to consider there's more to it than just an engine... you'll have to upgrade your brakes and hubs to equivalent parts for example if you want to get it engineered.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201981-howzit-guys/#findComment-3591844
Share on other sites
¯ڑôhàññ隯 Rookie

¯ڑôhàññ隯

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
an R33 GTS is the regular R33 with RB20E SOHC engine. an R33 GTS25 is the one with an RB25DET, but there's virtually no R33 GTS's in the country (they all came in under the old CPA import scheme where there was no power to weight requirement) so everyone pretty much assumes when you say R33 GTS you're actually talking about an R33 GTS25.

Ah didn't realise you were on your P's... in that case RB25DE might be the way to go, but I like your VQ35DE idea a lot, I've been toying with putting one in my R32. Its a great engine. 5K is a pretty good buy, but you also have to consider there's more to it than just an engine... you'll have to upgrade your brakes and hubs to equivalent parts for example if you want to get it engineered.

Actually bruva, the GTS25 is just the RB25DE - no turbo[t], the GTS-T is the RB25DET. That makes the Nissan Skyline R33 GTS - RB20E SOHC. The RB20E's were built in relatively large numbers in Japan and used as company cars for the employees of the factories, and yes there are very few in the country that is true :)

NRV155 = I knew all about what I'd have to do when I bought it, but I didn't see why I should have bothered with a GTS25 (RB25DE) when it was going to cost me what.. 4k extra. I can spend 4k on this and have a better car. Only makes sense.

About the brakes etc, I mentioned that in my first post --> doing the 5 stud conversion and so on - not really fussed about the costs, engine will cost the most obviously so ya that's where the focus is. The VQ35DE is a really interesting idea I think as well, but then again, how much do you pay for a VQ35DE? Don't know how common they are and they're probably pretty expensive, haven't seen any advertised online at jap import garages or forums, so I'm assuming they're somewhat hard to get a hold of. I recon a sleeper black R33 debadged with a VQ35DE would be awesome, nobody would know WHAT the hell you got under the hood, they'll just hear this awesome sound n think wtfff? Lets try him, n get smoked. Could make for a pretty unique car aye.

PS: What would you fellas guess a 94 R33 GTS (RB20E) to be worth? Just out of curiosity.

Edited by ¯ڑôhàññ隯
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201981-howzit-guys/#findComment-3593041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...