Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just fitted a catback exhaust and the pipe is tapping the diff when i shake it (go over bumps, driveways etc).

Any one had this problem? Do i have to adjust the hangers somehow? Any quick fixes for this like a heat resistant rubber stopper i can block up the gap between the diff and the pipe with?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202301-trust-power-extreme-2-problem/
Share on other sites

ok this may sound a silly question it is the one suited for the skyline? The hangers you may be able to locate stiffer ones(mounts the rubber ones), prolly best see you local exhaust shop and ask them as they might be able to quick fix it for you or point you in the right way, Part from that as far as i know i dont think you can put rubber (as i dont think there is anything capable of high heat) inbetween dif and the exhaust as it would be too close to the metal surface of the exhaust and would eventually melt burn etc.

The ole saying fix it once fix it properly comes into mind there as well... Someone might have a better solution but the hangers might be the best bet, which will most likely be exhaust shop at the end of the day, it shouldnt be all too much to get fixed anyway

I left it high res so you can really see everything. I circled the little bit that taps. There is about 5mm clearance, however the exhaust is able to move when you apply a bit of force. Very noticeable when you change gears and the car is moving.

post-38346-1200814335_thumb.jpg

i was thinkin my blitz exhaust has not just the weld on the outside where the hangers are it has one on the inside as well.. yours looks 2 be sliding down the hangers a bit which is bringing it closer to the diff... soo maybe just get something on there to hold the hangers in the rite spot it should give u a bit more clearance... when i go on dirt road my exhaust bumps against the top of my rear bumper its kinda annoying too but nothin i can do about it...

hope that made sense good luck

it shouldnt really move around that much though? i dont even have the bracket above the cat its held only by the front pipe and the rubbers and it sits tight.

when you removed the old one, did you remove the bolts or just pull the hangers out of the rubber? it may be that you put a bolt on the wrong side somewhere.

my advice; see if you can just bend the hangers with a big shifter (no need to remove exhaust) so that it sits a bit better, but trust exhaust on my 33 was perfect

only unbolted one of the rubber hangers, which happens to be the one you can see in the pic. The other ones didnt unbolt, but we took them off to get everything off the stock muffler easier. Im pretty sure we idnt mix them up, but i dunno. That hanger pictured is a little stretched, i might just try replace them all with new universal rubbers. Otherwise if that doesnt work, its bending time.

other than that tho, the exhaust sounds nice :P

Edited by delljit
I left it high res so you can really see everything. I circled the little bit that taps. There is about 5mm clearance, however the exhaust is able to move when you apply a bit of force. Very noticeable when you change gears and the car is moving.

post-38346-1200814335_thumb.jpg

i remember the day when my exhaust was that shiny :ph34r: .... then about a week later it was all gone... now a year later... its definitely all gone :)

on the actual topic though. very strange you have movement in the exhaust. when mine fitted up it was seriously tight and wasn't going to be moving anywhere

you need to fit it all up then tighten the bolts or else it wont fit up str8, imagine a bit out at the cat (both F & R bolts) then a bit more out at the centre join and you are gonna be prety close to anything. loosen the lot off then nip it enough to move it into position then tighten.

i 100% know it is in the positioning not the exhuast..... i have never had one not fit and we have sold container loads ....

you need to fit it all up then tighten the bolts or else it wont fit up str8, imagine a bit out at the cat (both F & R bolts) then a bit more out at the centre join and you are gonna be prety close to anything. loosen the lot off then nip it enough to move it into position then tighten.

i 100% know it is in the positioning not the exhuast..... i have never had one not fit and we have sold container loads ....

Hmm, now that you mention it join in the middle section of the exhaust didnt have circle holes for the bolts they were oval. I had a closer look at the flange and it might be 1 or 1.5mm out. The cat section looked ok, but then again they were circle holes if i remember corectly so i doubt it wouldve been out any.

Will put the car on ramps again tomorrow, loosen the bolts and try to align it differently. Also got a couple of new hanger mounts to try out.

I had exactly this problem.. turns out, it was front pipe being 3-4cm too long. So what I did was had about 3-4cm lopped off the cat .. if you can picture the cat.. looking like |==[ ]==|... then afterwards it was |==[ ]=| ... it then sat 100% perfectly. As mentioned above.. it's definately not the exhaust it's the positioning.

I had exactly this problem.. turns out, it was front pipe being 3-4cm too long. So what I did was had about 3-4cm lopped off the cat .. if you can picture the cat.. looking like |==[ ]==|... then afterwards it was |==[ ]=| ... it then sat 100% perfectly. As mentioned above.. it's definately not the exhaust it's the positioning.

did you use a local aftermarket cat? i know the stupid xforce (all nissan) ones are based on aussie s15 cats and they are 3-4cm longer than the jap ones which are all the same size.

Didn't pay much attention, I bought the cat from the forums. But i knew for certain the front pipe i had was too long, it was bought again from a sponsor here and didn't mate up to the original cat + cat-back. This problem was later recognised and the subsequent batches i believe for the r34 benefitted from my input.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
×
×
  • Create New...