Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Hks Low Mount Manifold

Roy
 Share

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Item: HKS low mount cast iron manifold

Age: Used...no longer made so not sure of age

Condition: Good condition, no pitting or cracks, just some light surface rust from storage

Price: $620 or best offerwas asking $880

To Fit: Manifold will fit R32 GTR, R33 GTR, not sure about R34 GTR. Can be used on any other R32, R33 GTSt/GST25t running an RB26 head

Location: CBD Melbourne

Contact: PM or reply in thread

Comments:

Purchased this manifold as i had hoped to be able to pick up a reasonably priced RB26 head which i was then going to use with an RB30 and a T04Z. Time has past and the RB20 still wont die so starting to slowly sell of the parts that i have accuulated over time for the "what if the 'ol RB20 dies" engine ... it seems it wont die :ermm: My 2008 plans include trip OS and Dutton rally, so LOL cant justify having parts laying around:)

It has mounts that will allow you to easily make a high quality and effective heat shield out of ACL dual layer shielding, think XR6 Turbo. It is also cast so will be rugged and durable on the street/track without cracking.

Some pics of the manifold...

gallery_462_50_349356.jpg

gallery_462_50_218331.jpg

gallery_462_50_775275.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203245-rb26-hks-low-mount-manifold/
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
trouble is that most guys upgrading an rb26 or doing a 30/26 are obviously after big power gains so would probably cough the extra for something like a 6BOOST tubular header

it's a bit of a paradox

good luck with the sale

Fair point. But there is nothing wrong with the performance of these manifolds with flow testing showing they are very good things. They are low mount and give the engine bay a more understated look. Thats what i was after anyway. Same reason why when my TD06 setup comes off the RB20 i am likely to go 3071 on std manifold for reliability and more std look

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

For those thinking this is a crappy cast manifold, look closely at the casting and you will be able to see it is essentially a 6 into 2 into 1 manifold, much like many of the aftermarket tubular manifolds. Only cast so without the welds/points of failure/cracking and also without the poor fit up and alignment that many of the manifolds using cast elbows suffer from. This manifold can be easily match ported to the head and extrude honed for those massively anal about ensuring a smooth path for exhaust gases. This was my plan, only the cost of RB26 heads vs a holiday. Well the RB26 head lost out :teehee:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...