Jump to content
SAU Community

Suggested Spring Rates For Track Work

Do-Luck
 Share

Recommended Posts

Do-Luck Veteran

Do-Luck

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm not 100% certain about the offsets, but sort of just getting some ideas at the moment. Main thing to sort out is the suspension first.

Would you maybe suggest I run 17x8 +25 up front, while leaving the 17x9 +17 on the rear?

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

some points.

I run 17X9.5 + 17 work XD9's and 235 tyres and they dont rub, my guards have been hand flared but not heaps... they wouldnt fit stock guards thats for sure. However im assuming most ppl here have rolled guards as a minimum.

I also run 7 kg front and 5 kg rear in my skyline, R33 front LCA's with new bushes, stock upper control arms with new noltec bushes also (didnt want upper camber arms) and this combo gives me 2.5 - 3 degrees (depending on the height i run) handling is fantastic and i have found that the longer LCA"s have almost eliminated any bump steer and they make for a very direct feel on the track.

Ive got the SK sway bars all round and run them medium front and soft rear, along with that ive got traction rods in the rear which ive spent a lot of time setting up, i was running 5mm longer then stock, with slight toe in an minimal camber and the rear grip was great. i have since changed all the specs for an upcoming track day (drift but i do some grip here an there) in the search of getting even more grip.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

A 235 RE55 is a big tyre. It'd be close to a 255 road tyre in width. On a 9 inch rim there is no stretch. It sits square.

To fit a 235 RE55 under the front of my gtst i needed gtr guards and i run a 17x9+25 rim for track work with around 3 degrees camber.

I previously ran a 215 AO48 on the front with a 17x8+30 rim with stock guards. Even that was close.

I actually have those wheels and tyres on an s13 atm with s14 LCA and about 3.5 degrees camber and it doesn't scrub at all and isn't an obvious offset fail >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hendasto
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By Hendasto · Posted

      Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • Hendasto
      Are RBs worth building reliability wise

      By Hendasto · Posted

      At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • MBS206
      New kid on the block

      By MBS206 · Posted

      https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...