Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: rb25det short motor (bare motor)

Age: unsure, came in my r32 from japan. car only has 100k on clock

Condition: smokey under boost. needing rebuild due to rings

Price: 600

To Fit: (What car) anything with rb motor

Location: adelaide

Contact: pm me or ring carl on 0434223083

Comments: in car atm but wont be for long. coming out pretty much in a day or 2. new motor ready and waiting to go in

this is a bare motor remember, no loom ecu or accessories

either pick up or can be transported to most major citys

Edited by sneaky1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203427-rb25det/
Share on other sites

would you seperate the head, if so what price?

not looking at seperating sorry.

can u organise shipping. how much to get it to melb. i dont mind pickin up from a depo etc.

just rang a mate. he will get back to me tomorrow on a shipping price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203427-rb25det/#findComment-3608094
Share on other sites

Doesnt short motor mean without the head...? long motor with..

my understanding of it is, short motor is a bare motor, block and head. long motor is a motor with accesseries, eg manifolds turbo alternator etc

i am interested just got to many costs atm i gotta take care of first. if it still around when i ready i will let ya know. sorry.

ok no worries cheers

Edited by sneaky1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203427-rb25det/#findComment-3643683
Share on other sites

my understanding of it is, short motor is a bare motor, block and head. long motor is a motor with accesseries, eg manifolds turbo alternator etc

ok no worries cheers

A short motor is just the bottom end.

A long motor is the bottom end and head, no accessories.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203427-rb25det/#findComment-3644381
Share on other sites

everyone has a different opinion of short and long motor. my understanding was the same as sneaky. that is why it doesn't hurt to specify.

anyhow bugger you aren't seperating the head.

That was not an opinion, its a fact.

If you worked in the engine building industry you would know that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203427-rb25det/#findComment-3645456
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...