Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a r33 series one that i just pulled my broken 400r bumper off. i need to cut my standard bumper to fit over the cooler pipes and possibly the intercooler. does anyone have a picture of how much i need to cut out off the series one standard bumper to fit it over the cooler. or any advise on how to measure it best. i only want to cut the minimum out of it and not end up cutting out too much so it looks crap.

I fitted a Trust kit in an Impul Fibreglass bumper today.

Get a mate to hold the bumper in place for a test fit - you will be able to see where the bumper is hitting on the intercooler. Then measure on the side where it fits up against the light as to how far away you are. I was about 5cm with mine.

I then measured a 5cm line across the bit(s) of bumper that was causing the problem and made a template line with masking tape, then went to it with an angle grinder. Needed a bit of tidying up with a file & sandpaper but came up nice in the end. I cut a little on the conservative side and let the file do the rest. Bumper is now a perfect fit around the core.

Good luck!

what should i cut it with?

Angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel will work fine. Thats what I used to cut up a standard R32 bar.

You can even use a jigsaw with a plastic cutting blade, that might give you a neater cutting providing you have enough room to use a jigsaw.

  • 4 weeks later...

ive been trying to put it on and ive cut a fair bit out of the bottom holes where it was hitting on the cooler pipes. the problem now is its hitting on the metal bar bits behind the lights in the bumper. it even hits with the lights out of the bumper. how do i get it onthe rest of the way. i cant get it to line up to the bolt holes on the ends coz where its hitting it wont let me pull the ends of the bumper up to the holes. its on like a slant down and i cant pull it up cos of the metal bars. im thinking it should go on coz its the same bumper that would have came onthe car originallyeven before it had a cooler on it and where its hitting has nothing to do with the cooler or pipes. help me dudes.

its hitting on the big bars that bolt to the rest of the car that hold the bar that goes across the middle at the front. how do i get the thing on. i cant cut it there coz its hitting on the bumper lights. it shud go straight on coz its a original part going on to a car it was designed for.

You have a NON STANDARD (read:home made) reo. Damn that looks bad/unsafe. :D

You'll need to fit the std reo, then fit the front bar.

reo=Reinforcement Bar. The metal bar that sits just below your head lights and is attached to the car by those shitty "c-channel" bars.

its hitting on the c channel bars but hey. are they the original ones or made up also? the bar across the middle doesnt seem to be a problem and has holes in the top that line up with the round holes in the standard bumper i was gunna put on

thanks for that one man. now i see what i need

how much should i be looking at paying for a new reo bar? if anyone has one send me a pm with the price. im on brisbane northside.

i mean a second hand reo not a new one

Edited by joe blo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...