Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday Everyone,

Basically the subject heading says it all...

I have a 2000 model R34 GTT, manual box - only engine related mods being aftermarket intake/filter and a Xforce turbo back system.

Considering the cost of the Power FCs for R34s - before I lash out and buy one - I figured it might be an idea to ask what sort of performance improvments I am likely to see...

How much of an increase in power & torque should I expect, and will it be across the full rev range?

Any other benefits?

Any downsides??

Or should I sink the dough into other mods, for example a Splitfire coil pack??

Any and all constructive comments appreciated, thanks in advance :)

If you get it now It will only be an investment for the future,

as you add more bits and pieces to your car you will need to get your car tuned anyway.

I actually bought my power FC first, then saved and did all my mods one at a time, had my power fc sit in my closet for about 5 months. once all my mods were done I had the power FC installed and my car tuned all in one hit, saved a bit of money in the long run

Edited by Yo-Yo

Thanks for all of the replies everyone.

Even though I kinda knew a PFC would be beneficial in the long term, I wanted to be sure it was the right thing to do at this stage - I don't need to tell you guys how easily it is to go through $ in no time at all... :\

I have owned my GTT less than 2 weeks, and already have bought:

New wheels/tyres

Alpine stereo

Alarm/immobiliser

Turbo back exhaust

Navman

Nismo cluster

Splitfire coil pack

So yeah... I'm watching my bank balance go down pretty quickly!

I have a PFC lined up and should have it next week - after that, not sure what will come next - possibly a FMIC & new turbo? I might try to call it a day at that point (yeah, right!). Car came with Nismo coil overs and Blitz air filter...

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...