Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SURELY SUMONE HAS ONE?!!!

COME ON STOP BEING TIGHT ASSES :down:

HELP THE PPL THAT HELP YOU :):(:(

IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE BY MUNDY YOU CAN HAVE MINE LOL :P

:laugh: thanks Josh i may have to do that :laugh:

Think i might of found you a CAS clip and also a coil loom, just have to confirm which plug your coils use :D

  • 2 weeks later...
I got a complete RB20 wrecking if you're up come pull what you want off it.

Only need radiator drain bolt and stock cross over cobber, both of which you wouldn't be too keen on separating :D

  • 2 weeks later...
Is the pipe you need the one that usually has a BOV hanging off it? If so I have a stock one, but in Launceston.

Thats the one i need, how much did you want for it???

I got the crossover from an rb25 if that helps, might need to wack in an extra bend for the bov return but it could do, PM me if youre interested

All good thanks Ardie if i cant get a stock 20 one for the right price i will bend up my own next week :D

Cheers Ben

Thats the one i need, how much did you want for it???

All good thanks Ardie if i cant get a stock 20 one for the right price i will bend up my own next week :D

Cheers Ben

lol you should just do like my radiator is, sum random bolt where the plug is and heaps of gasket sealer lol. doesnt leak! :)

lol you should just do like my radiator is, sum random bolt where the plug is and heaps of gasket sealer lol. doesnt leak! :banana:

:laugh: yeah but im not a dodgy milkshake am i Josh, besides if you go the trouble of pulling the radiator out its not much more effort to get the correct bolt :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...