Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gees if you went too all that trouble to rebuild your motor with forged pistions why did you not just add stonger rods it would have cost the same in labour and then you could have forgot about it and it would be good for 370kw or 500hp.

I would hate to guess, so depending on variables, generally speaking it should be fine, but if its a 32gtr replacing old items with new makes sense. I take it you got upgrade turbos to handle 300kw? And seriously think of getting a N1 oil pump at this powerlevel for all day every day.

yeh they have ARP rod bolts.....I bought the car with the motor rebuilt if I did it I would have put steel rods in it, Also has an N1 oil pump and GT2860R turbos has all other components and support mods to handle 300kw just wanted to make sure the rods will be alright cause my mechanic was a bit sceptial bout it.

thanks for the info guys, also another quick question would the stock AFM's be ok for 300kw? Ive been told a cheap way around it is to you 2 rb25det ones??? Also I know this topic may have been covered aswell with a good pump and reg would the stock GTR injectors handle 300kw? I have a set of 660 nismos but im sure the $750 could be spent elsewhere if they went necassary

i wouldnt push my luck with the injectors and fuel pump when asking for 300..just generally not a smart move.

leave your AFM's as stock RB26DETT ones they will handle that fine (saving of about $600 from Z32's)

As it says guys I have had my motor rebuilt with forgies but it still has the standard rods they have just been shot peened and crack tested or something would they hand 300kw all day everyday? cheers

no problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...