Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well, Going by your mod list in your sig, Id wind 14 psi into it and Remap the ECU.

Then you start getting into aftermarket turbo/injectors/afm's, also GBox problems.

What Braking/suspension setup are you running?

And yes. This will ALWAYS happen./

Edited by R31 drift pig

14psi Shouldnt let go on a 20. And will be enough to keep you amused for a while. :D

As said, once you want more than that, starts costing a lot more cash.

Stock brake setup will be fine with good pads/fluid.

Running almost Identical setup, but with SARD fuel reg to jack a bit more fuel in.

itll always happen untill u crash, lose ur license or feel how 300kz feels like or buy a motor bike if ur power hungry ahahha

hehehe i lost my liscence then bought a gtr :D the boost bug has very powerful toxins... once your bitten you will just keep modding!! then take it to the track for all ur fun!!!

good luck joleo by the sounds of it yes you will feel like this for a long time!! maybe it will stop once your over the hill maybe not

gl

yeh its the wastegate action atm, i have a greddy B spec II electronic boost controller (that was a mouthful just to type lol) on layby so in the next few weeks i should have it :D

they should have a waring sticker on skylines...

*WARNING - You will always be power hungry if you buy this car!*

LOL... it's so true. Im already planning my next round of mods once I get the whore painted and driving for a while. (HKS 2535, External Gate, RB25 Box, Twin plate etc.)

Get a Walbro (GENUINE) pump, SARD fuel reg, Wind 14 PSI into it and remap to suit.

Exact setup I have in my car. Have Boostworx Daughterboard in the ECU, just need to tune it. (Once again, waiting to paint).

What's she making on 10psi? Mines making 180 odd on 8psi (Boostworx dyno) Shaun said to expect to see it crack 200 on 14.5psi.

Edited by R31 drift pig

Sounds like you already have a decent enough setup!

I must be odd, I have fairly minor mods and thats enough for me. Instead of wanting more power, I want another skyline! :) infact one of the skyline models im considering to get has less power then my current skyline :D

lol... Im not chasing more power now, Prolly gonna drive the car for 6-12 months and get used to / Refine the setup (Car hasnt been drifted yet) then Ill be upping the power to around 250 - 260 KW's at the wheels.

RB25 box/twin plate/single piece tailshaft will be simply for reliability.

And yes, it's gonna cost me a mint. :banana::down:

hey fellas wat power should i be able to get with this mods i got

full 3" exaust

front mont intercooler

lsd

exedy 3 puk clutch

greedy pro spec 2 boost controller

hks fuel cut defender

the last 3 items r on they way and should be here this week just wondering how much boost i could run with my factory turbo and the power figures i might get

yea illl get all that wen i get a bit more cash just hard to get cars tuned in alice theres only one dyno but the bloke that runs it has blown 8 cars up cause he dont no wat his doing his a motorbike machanic so got to send car away for tuning

Edited by fab34

ah k. You will need a FCD tuned through, need to set the 'cut' at the right point.

Boostworx remaps are only $550 inc. labour, and Im sure a majority of the SA people use Shaun to tune, and can vouch for how good he is.

And you get all those roads from NT to SA... :banana::down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...