Jump to content
SAU Community

What Are These Parts

R33silverS2
 Share

Recommended Posts

daryl the pony Collaborator

daryl the pony

Posted
Posted (edited)

red arrow is your fuel filter

blue arrow is your fuel damper- it stop pulsations within the fuel system

it`s unlikely they might cause starting problems, you might wanna look into some thing like coolant temp senors,leaking injectors,etc

Edited by daryl the pony
R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
red arrow is your fuel filter

blue arrow is your fuel damper- it stop pulsations within the fuel system

it`s unlikely they might cause starting problems, you might wanna look into some thing like coolant temp senors,leaking injectors,etc

An hour or so after driving my car and then trying to restart it, the car just cranks and won't fire, yet will fire next go without fail. It seems as if its not getting fuel for some reason... and then when you try and start it again it had sucked up fuel into the lines from the previous starting attemp. Coolant sensor may be a good idea, but it seems to start fine in the morings and when cold so leaking injectors could probably be ruled out. Only has problems to start after its been driven. - like once the fuel has had time to drain away and lose pressure... so not straight way after driven for example, but like an hour later - i have a bosch 040 and seems to have arisen after that went in. But in terms of the heat, sensors sound logical. It is very frustrating... :banana:

daryl the pony Collaborator

daryl the pony

Posted
Posted

when you installed the 040 did you leave the bosch check valve in place, i`v always removed it and just used a 5/16 hose tail screw on fitting?

but then again if fuel pressure was droping, it would be a bitch to start in the mornings

just a quick test prime the fuel pump 2-3 time before you start it again........see waht happens

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
when you installed the 040 did you leave the bosch check valve in place, i`v always removed it and just used a 5/16 hose tail screw on fitting?

but then again if fuel pressure was droping, it would be a bitch to start in the mornings

just a quick test prime the fuel pump 2-3 time before you start it again........see waht happens

I'm not sure whether or not the bosch check valve was used, as i didn't install it, it was put in at a workshop, this workshop is also convinently not around anymore so i cant exactly ring and ask.. :S I have had it checked though and the pump was said to be fine and the install fine too apparently.

I just started the car about an hour after i last drove it (when the problem occurs) and primed it 3 times , ign on, off, on, off, on and the car started no problem....

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ok cool

one of two things, you got a problem with the check vavle on the pump.........OR .................

you happen to be another victim of Cheap bosch fuel pumps (i say it`s the pump)

Thats what i have always said from the start... the pump, yet I had it taken out and checked by my current tuner / mech and he said it flowed fine and looked all good, and he wasn't the one who put it in, so had no reason to lie or anything. Unless it just doesn't operate properly when the fuel heats up or the lines heat up or something? Cos it starts in the morning fine, (with the 2-3second prime) that whats really confusing me... The check valve, is that like a one way anti-drain valve? I told my mech I wanted to put a Walbro in as a replacement, and he said it wasn't neccasary, the worst thing about it is when its at the shop its hard for the tuner to replicate cos it only happens after the car has been driven and warmend up to operating temp, then left sitting for an hour. Gees maybe its what ive been suspecting all along and the pump just sucks.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...