Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While we are on the topic of fuel pumps, who is running a GTR pump. I have been told that if you wire a GTR pump to get consant 14.5 volts. it can support up to 400RWKW is this correct? I had a walbro in my car and now l have a GTR pump wired

up in the mentioned configeration supporting well over 300RWKW.
  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

While we are on the topic of fuel pumps, who is running a GTR pump. I have been told that if you wire a GTR pump to get consant 14.5 volts. it can support up to 400RWKW is this correct? I had a walbro in my car and now l have a GTR pump wired
up in the mentioned configeration supporting well over 300RWKW.

400rwkw out of a GTR fuel pump? Sounds like a load of shit to me.

I got 300rwkw out of my walboro 255lph, BUT it wouldn't go below 12.8:1 afrs... I didn't mind because I run WMI.

I opened the injectors full on the power fc and the afr's didn't change.

So it would be safe to say that the walboro 255lph could only hold 250rwkw safely. Anything else and you're asking for a blown engine.

Anymore more than 14psi of boost is asking for trouble with them too. A lot of people are too ignorant to understand that boost has a heavy impact on the fuel pump that you are running cause boost is pushing back on the injectors..

I could be wrong but i think you would need an external set up to safely push 350 rwkw, especially if you are going to hit the track with it.

So you would need a surge tank, bosch 044 and use the pump already in the tank as a feeder.

Just my opinion though

I could be wrong but i think you would need an external set up to safely push 350 rwkw, especially if you are going to hit the track with it.

So you would need a surge tank, bosch 044 and use the pump already in the tank as a feeder.

Just my opinion though

Im not guna be hitting the track but I was hoping I didnt need to go external, I have spoken to a few people and everyone has had different opinoins so far which makes it even harder

Well Ill answer your question,

NO A WALBRO WILL NOT HANDLE 350+ RWKW..

NO A WALBRO WILL NOT HANDLE OVER 14PSI (I.E will no longer work at max capacity)

NO A WALBRO WILL NO SUIT YOU, YOUR OTHER OPTIONS ARE NISMO, TOMEI (they are the best options) YOUR OTHER OPTION IS A BOSCHE 040.

Nismo and Tomei drop in, Bosche 040 requires modifications.

(I got all this infomation from reading this thread, perhaps you should also do this.)

Edited by DECIM8
Well Ill answer your question,

NO A WALBRO WILL NOT HANDLE 350+ RWKW..

NO A WALBRO WILL NOT HANDLE OVER 14PSI

NO A WALBRO WILL NO SUIT YOU, YOUR OTHER OPTIONS ARE NISMO, TOMEI (they are the best options) YOUR OTHER OPTION IS A BOSCHE 040.

Nismo and Tomei drop in, Bosche 040 requires modifications.

(I got all this infomation from reading this thread, perhaps you should also do this.)

Well I cant see how a bosch 040 will handle that sort of power when the pump only flows 102l/h @ 6.5bar, maybe at least a bosch 044!

can people just understand that the xxxl\ph means nothing unless you look at the pressure against it?

For example -

205l/h at 70psi will flow more than a pump that does 255l/h at 40psi WHEN the pressure required is say, 60psi.

Im just preaching what people are saying..

14psi + 38psi fuel presure = 52psi .. was it not said that that pump was tested at 3bar? 14.2psi x3 = 42.6psi .. so 14psi is already higher than rated presure..

So your no longer running 255lph.. its still working but your running less fuel because of more presure.

Thats my understanding of it all, btw I cant remember what one bar is in PSI so its round about that.. I no its 14.2 or 14.7 isnt it?

risk vs cost i guess is important here

if you can save $300 but you find the AFR's drop off the face of the plannet at 5000rpm on full load, lean out city + rebuild time

then is it really worth the cost saving? why go all out on a psycho build only to skimp on something as important as fuel delivery

no fuel is fine, less fuel than expected is not however, thats when it leans out off the planet and rebuild light comes on

Im just preaching what people are saying..

14psi + 38psi fuel presure = 52psi .. was it not said that that pump was tested at 3bar? 14.2psi x3 = 42.6psi .. so 14psi is already higher than rated presure..

So your no longer running 255lph.. its still working but your running less fuel because of more presure.

Thats my understanding of it all, btw I cant remember what one bar is in PSI so its round about that.. I no its 14.2 or 14.7 isnt it?

Who says you NEED 255lph at 14 psi? You have a nice graph that Mafia posted on the previous page showing you the flow characteristics for the pump. You can work out that at 52psi pressure it's supplying approximately 204lph. The next step in claiming that the walbro outright can't handle 14 psi would be to work out how much fuel the RB25 needs.

From http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/FY...-Fl-t47081.html (you'd want to confirm this), the RB25 injectors flow 440cc/min at 52psi. 440cc/min = 26.4lph, for 6 cylinders that's 158.4lph. Less than 204lph if my maths is correct.

So please stop preaching rubbish.

Edited by govich

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...