Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everyone knows the R32 fuse trick to convert to 2WD, but i was reading the R33 service manual and it says;

2WD Setting, Remove air evacuation connector, depress the brake 5 times within 10 seconds after placing ignition to on

then follows by saying remove the front shaft,

just wondering if the 32 uses this air evacuation system and is that why u can just pull a fuse on a 33.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204549-2wding-an-awd-r33/
Share on other sites

the reason u cant just pull the fuse out in an r33 is because the ATESSA is run eletronically and also with 33s and 34s there is always i think 5% of torque goin to the front wheels. In R32s 100% of torque is goin to the rear wheels until loss of traction or too many gs and also the 32s ATESSA system is run by a motor and oil.

theres lots of threads about this use the search button

hope this helps

vinnie

I'm new here so treat me gently. How does the attessa system handle different rolling diametres within front rear tyres? does the % torque system take care of the different speeds or do you have to have your tyres whithin a fraction of each other.?

im pretty sure u have to have the same size tyres all round other wise it starts to play up

Best way is to do as described... removing the front drive shafts etc

I've been told you can buy a controller but it'll f**k the plates in the transfer case over time if running 100% RWD mode

As described above, you can't just remove a fuse as it's always sending torque to the front wheels. Kinda sucks doesn't it..... but still, the handling advantages are worth it :thanks:

Edited by TommO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...