Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found this on a site somewhere, some people may find it helpful

Airconditioning Diagnostic's

Self-test diagnostic mode..

It is a six step process, although step six is not used for trouble diagnoses.

Step 1. Self-diagnostic test.

To enter diagnostic mode press the OFF button for more than five seconds within ten seconds of turning ignition from OFF to ON.

Step 2. Sensor check.

Step 2 is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen.

The sensor numbers are as follows:

20 - All is normal

21 - Outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty.

Step 3. Mode door position check.

(This is probably not the cause of your problems but it is a nifty self check to play with). While in step 2, depress the HOT button again. This will operate the mode door actuator, and checks the whether the position detection switch is operating. Again the results are displayed on the display.

The sensor numbers are as follows:

30: Normal

31: VENT

32: B/L (Bi level)

34: FOOT

35: DEFROST/FOOT

36: DEFROST

Step 4: Actuator operation check.

By pressing the HOT button while in Step 3, you can actually send a signal to check the operation of the actuator manually.

Step 5: Sensor recognition check.

Press the HOT switch again and a "5" will be indicated in the display section. If you press the "AMB" button in this status, the display will show the temperature sensed by each sensor. This will give you an indication also of which (if any) are faulty. Temperatures will be displayed in the following order:

5 -> Outside air temp -> Inside air temp -> Suction temp -> Refrigerant temp

Obviously if any of these temps seem excessively different from actual temperatures you have a problem!

Step 6: Calibration

If you depress the fan switch during Step 5, you will go to Step 6 in which you can set the difference between the indicated temperature and sensed temperature. I found this very useful because when I got my car I found I had to set the inside temp to around 22 to feel comfortable even though I knew it was probably more like 20. While in Step 6 press the HOT or COLD buttons to change the display by plus or minus 3 degrees in .5 degree increments.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204597-aircon-diagnostic/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

you are supposed to press WITH ignition on, coz the A/C needs power to operate.

my cooling sensor needs to be replaced does anyone know where the sensors are and how to change them or put the 2k resistor on? with pictures please

Edited by skyline-driver

thanks for the info ^ ..it worked

but when i got to step 5..i only got the temperature for the outside and inside air temp. like 27degrees > 28 degrees. and then when i pressed the AMB button, it went back to 5 :S

any idea why its doing this?

and the actuators i only could get 41 to 46. there wasnt any 47. and how should the air be coming out of the vents when i'm in the different actuators between 41- 46? cheers

Unfortunately Im pretty sure you can only see outside temp when running these diagnostics - o/wise it could of been very usefull

Tazz im not sure, theres another aircon diagnostic page in this section - maybe have a look at that

Edited by Jmaac
  • 10 months later...

Howdy Guys,

In answer to your questions,

Erractic engadgement of A/c Compressor = Busted Pressure sensor.

A/C not Cold = Low Refridgerent levels... (eg. Possible Leak or just needs a regas)

NOTE: this is not something you can do yourself :rolleyes: you must have a A/C Licence.. due to the Tight

Regulations Reguarding to realsing refridgent into the atmosphere...

Any Questions please dont hesitate to E-mail me

Jarvis Tech boy :thumbsup:

Damo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After chasing my tail with LS results..... and cheaper than a turbo swap... How confident are you that the dyno is accurate relative to other results? How fast is the car - What MPH does it actually run? Is this similar to what people running this power would expect?
    • Hi mate I am having an identical issue with my 98 R34 GTT. The engie suddenly cuts out under load at about 3-4k, black smoke out exhaust. Almost feels like traction control kicking in. No CEL but still going to check codes later today. Car was sitting in the shed for about 5 months before hand and only idled a few times, took her out with about 1/4 tank, filled up and thats when the issues started happening.  Threw on a spare set of coils/harness and checked plugs which was no help. Recently had fuel pump/filter changed so surely thats not the issue unless condensation in fuel, I just havent had the time to drain it It's running a hi flow turbo, bosch 1000cc injectors, walbro 450L, Z32, Nistune etc... All about 2000km old.
    • I always wonder where the obsession with legal/illegal spacing on number plates in the UK comes from. Because it comes up in comments in every UK-based video I see on youtube. From my point of view all of your plates look a bit odd. Just because there are no markings whatsoever. In Australia we have the state that has to be on it. In Europe you get stamps and state logos. Yours look a bit like a throwaway draft that people then stuck with. And attached with blu tack so that it falls off at the slightest disturbance. Not trying to hate, but it's interesting how things are done in different countries. Do you have to follow a lettering convention when choosing a custom plate?
    • Hybrid sounds like a supercharger... It's half a turbo, with a belt to drive it! Oh wait, they're just called super chargers...
    • It's either an ignition failure or a fuel failure.
×
×
  • Create New...