Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I need to reattach a badge back onto my the car... Searched up and most people recommend double sided tape? But doesn't that make the badge easily removable? What's the stuff that holds the stock badges in place? Also, I may want to remove the badge later to attach to another bonnet, so is there any adhesive that is relatively sturdy yet is removable (without damaging the badge)? Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204820-re-attaching-badges/
Share on other sites

I have found that if you want to put them on 'PERMANRNTLY' then clean the area and use Mirror adhesion liquid nails.

It is used to stick mirrors to anything and on the back of mirrors there is little chance for anything else to adhere to.

I wanted different badges on my daily driver which unfortunately is a commodore so I bought belt buckles from City beach, ground off the shackle on the back of it with a rotary tool and glued it on with the Mirror Liquid nails. 2 years later they are still on there and are definately not coming off without a hammer and chisel of some sort.

YAYA

yeh drive without a bonnet!

that wont cause problems..

Sure it wont... I have always wanted to cruise around for a bit without a bonnet, but my car is mostly stock so that wouldnt work. Flaunt wot u have, y not? By for a bit, I mean an hour or something

There's a new product called 3M invisible adhesive gel or something... they look like guey little drops of gel or glue - although they stick on nicely, they actually do not damange your paint work... so yeah... pretty good... go to Autobarn and give them a shot or something.

Cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...