Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last week my gf jumped in the passanger seat of my R33 and when she pulled out the seatbelt it kept coming out and had no tension at all. Now it doesnt retract at all. Im geussing the spring mechanism for the belt is stuffed and I guess you cant open it up (the spring mechanism) to fix it due to safety issues.

So basically I need to find a second hand seatbelt for the passanger side of an R33 gtst Series 2.

Also, from what ive been told the seat belt mechanism for the passanger side goes behind the back seat, so its probably not something I could do myself (im not very mechanically skilled).

So im after a new seatbelt mechanism, and to basically confirm if what I know is correct; that I can't fix the current seatbelt mechanism and how to go about replacing it best.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205627-need-help-with-a-seatbelt/
Share on other sites

Try a compliance workshop...they're supposed to replace the seat belts at compliance so they should have some new ones lying around...

As for the passenger seat belt mechanism being behind the rear seats, not sure how true that is...I had my front and rear seats out and didn't see it back there...

Thanks for the quick response.

In regard to the mechanism location, thats just what I was told by a mate, so not necessarily a reliable source, however he hasnt been wrong before, so this would be a first.

I didnt think to check compliance places. There are a few memebrs on here from compliance workshops from memory, carizma or something? I just need to find one that would do an R33. Ill dig around in a few threads. Thanks.

is it an autoliv seat belt or a genuine nissan one?

Wouldnt have a clue to be honest. Cant check right now either as my car is at home. Does one of the two have a lifetime warranty or something? :P

Would it say what it is on that little tag that hangs off all seatbelts?

Been quoted by Oakleigh Mechanical Repairs.

$50 for second hand seatbelt assembly.

$20-$30 for installation.

Any feedback on these guys, if its good post it here, otherwise send it via PM please.

Thanks

im pretty sure the seatbelt location is exactly the same as the drivers....inside the pillar where the belts dissapears. its a fiddly job but not difficult at all.

i doubt it would be a genuine item as its normally replaced durring compliance.

ah just remembered...yeah i think you do have to remove the bottom rear seat to open the pannel to get to the seatbelt. still not too difficult. theres two metal clips that hold the rear seat down...stick a screwdriver in there and pop it out.

Its a '97 model series 2, so yeah, it does have the dual airbags. Forgot to check the tag last night.

And thats probably my misunderstanding about it being behind the rear seat, probably what I was told was that they had to be taken out to change it.

Ill PM Dave as well and see what he has, thanks.

i got 2 full set's of seatbelts, 1 set for series 1 and one for dual air bag 97 series 2, they pretty easy to get out, just remove a couple of trims where the seatbelt is and then unbolt and replace as a whole unit. prob take an hour if you have never done it before.

im neer knox if closer than oakleigh you can buy from me for $50

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
    • Cam seals go hard. It's a very old car.
×
×
  • Create New...