Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Can you please specify how many sets are left? I want two sets of the rush 18x9.5+15 in silver thanks if you have them

Also if i pay on monday when are they delivered?

Please send me your bank ac details

Forgot to confirm these come with centre caps? :D

pm sent, what offset do you guys recommend for a gts-t for the DTM Rush Shadow Silver?

i would like 18x8.5 for the fronts and 18x9.5 for the rear.

Would like to know if you have a set left of the DTM Rush Shadow Silver for a R34 GTT - i'm not good with the whole offset business so if you know the correct offset would be good

Also if you can quote with tyres as well... i'm in melbourne so i can pickup

Thanks!

who is the manufacturer?

are these in stock to take delivery now at this price?

thanks very much.

cheers

Michael

http://www.dtm.co.nz/page/dtm_5.php

Looks like the same people who manufacture the RS-GT's, TE37 copies.

All imported from overseas by the looks of things, they import the below brands:

DTM Wheels

Vault

Kahn Design

Foose

DUB

DRIV

NICHE

Racinghart

Lowenhart

Riverside

Intro Billet Wheels

Not baad! cant beat it for the price!

Picked up my set of rush's today :P

18x8.5 +29

18x9.5 +35

Also agree with eddieeeee-ro that the silver is more blackish. Will post pics when i can.

as per the dtm.co.nz website there is a gold, hyper black & gun metal grey finish.

i would say that access auto stock the hyper black finish!

dsc00110jx6.jpg

dsc00114xa6.jpg

car needs to be lowered more haha

the wheels look micky as...

+35 offsets are perfect, they clear the front brakes by like 1mm and sit flush with the guards...

just needs some rays wheel nuts and decent centre caps, the dtm caps arent that flash lol.

dsc00110jx6.jpg

dsc00114xa6.jpg

car needs to be lowered more haha

the wheels look micky as...

+35 offsets are perfect, they clear the front brakes by like 1mm and sit flush with the guards...

just needs some rays wheel nuts and decent centre caps, the dtm caps arent that flash lol.

Hey can someone please photoshop that car so the car is white???

Would like to see what those wheels will look like on my car.




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...