Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Place To Source Second Hand R33 Gts-t Power Fc


Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, A family friend has been living in Japan for a while now and they are coming back in september. So just wondering if you guys have any ideas where I can get them to get me a second hand power fc that works for cheap.

Hey Guys, A family friend has been living in Japan for a while now and they are coming back in september. So just wondering if you guys have any ideas where I can get them to get me a second hand power fc that works for cheap.

Sadly your chances are slim to none.

They are near impossible to find now in Japan, and don't think that because its Japan they will be much cheaper than here as there is the same if not more demand for them over there and they are fetching some huge prices second hand!

Agreed, I was helping some people try and buy them and they were "bargain hunting"... the prices on those are going UP!!!! If you find one, then pay whatever it costs, because you can bet that IF you see another one, it will cost more than the last one you saw.

So the answer to your question "where I can get them to get me a second hand power fc that works for cheap" is unfortunately, nowhere.

p.s. Blitz, you might want to change the price for that R33 PowerFC in your sig. You shouldn't give it away like that.

Edited by Laurence
  • 1 month later...

I have an RB25 Power FC, if you could get the model number I could be willing to work out a deal with you.. and I won't rape you.. just trying to help out car people.

However, if you can navigate your way through UpGarage.com I have seen them going for 500-600 USD

AP-414-N012 and I wish you good luck. I had a quick look through Up Garage and couldn't find any.

But as a guide to what they are worth, have a look at these auctions and what they FINISH at.

http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k56217807

http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h56222394

Those are serial numbers so every unit has a different one. The RB25 bit is promising. Check the pictures in the links I posted.

But honestly, stick it on Yahoo and let people fight over it rather than giving it away on here.

AP-414-N012 and I wish you good luck. I had a quick look through Up Garage and couldn't find any.

But as a guide to what they are worth, have a look at these auctions and what they FINISH at.

http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k56217807

http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h56222394

lol buy now at $1500+

weird how i was in hong kong 2 months ago, and those guys seemed to have them in stock for just a lil over $1000 AUD with hand controller

should have bought a few and sold them here and make some $$$, probally fake though lol

If people could make fake PowerFCs it would be great, Apexi can't make real ones so at least it would give people another option.

I think it was just a case of some people in HK not knowing the value of what they had. Which is very unusual.

I feel like such a noob. I had a chance to buy 3 of them at the nismo festival a year ago... instead i bought an Rb26 nismo head gasket and a set of 350 zed brakes...made money but ...well...noobness at its best.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...