Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I was just wondering exactly how much engine oil do i need to put in my skyline. I have a RB25DET R33 using Ryco z145a filters... Does anyone know exact amount i need??

Cheers

Edited by br3ndan

Doesnt really matter, buy a 5L container of oil, put half of it in, run the engine for 10 secs, the check the oil. Once that is done, keep topping it up until it is on the full mark. Depends on how much oil is already in the engine as to how much it will accept. But roughly 4.4L would be the norm

THe problem is i filled it up and it was sitting a bit above the 3/4 mark. And itts been like that for awhile now. When i checked it today its gone over the full mark?

Any reason for this? THe oil is just under 5000kms old.

I put little bit less then 5 litres in. And at that time and other times it showed a bit over 3/4. And i did check it when the engine was hot.

Im using mobil 1 5w-50w....

Im pretty sure i put to much but i did start it up let the oil move to the filter and again top up... and it said 3/4 on the dip stick.

Maybe its the mobil 1 oil? to thin when i put it in?

Did you let the motor sit to let the oil settle back down to the normal level?

Also Ideally you'd probably want to run something closer to what Nissan recommends such as a 5W 30 instead of the thicker 5W 50 (the last number is the viscosity rating when hot, lower number = thinner)

What oil are you using? ..

I think i will change mine, but i got one more bottle left of mobil 1.. 5w - 50 w.

So ill use it up.

What do u mean let it settle down? After ive changed the oil or just normal checking of the oil ?

When you do an oil change you have to let it flow to the sump before you check the oil level. Same goes after the motor has been running. If you check it straight after switching the motor off it will be an innacurrate reading as the oil is still flowing back down to the sump from the head etc, so let it settle for a good 15 mins or so in those situations.

I use Royal Purple 5W 30, Nissan Recommends 7.5W 30

Also Ideally you'd probably want to run something closer to what Nissan recommends such as a 5W 30 instead of the thicker 5W 50 (the last number is the viscosity rating when hot, lower number = thinner)

each to there own. Ive been running 5w50 mobile 1 in a car that does track work for over a year now and couldn't be happier.

as for oil amount. if your changing filter then as already stated its just shy of 4.5L. if your going to be doing track stuff then maybe chuck in about 500ml more.

Cheers

Camden

each to there own. Ive been running 5w50 mobile 1 in a car that does track work for over a year now and couldn't be happier.

as for oil amount. if your changing filter then as already stated its just shy of 4.5L. if your going to be doing track stuff then maybe chuck in about 500ml more.

Cheers

Camden

Cheers mate. THanks for the info

I can just tell, threads gonna be about which oil is better. haha, my 2 cents....i use magnatec 10w30 and couldn't be happier...cus it's free!

nah we don't need to do that there are plently like them already :huh:

so if you ignore my "branding" earlier here is what i think is rough guide. Only get a fully synthetic, make sure the cold weight is between 5-10 so it gets things like the turbo lubed up nice and quick, and the hot weight really can vary from 30-50. I kind of go the thicker hot weight because these are old engines. my clock says 80,000 so in truth its prolly way over 100k so the internals are no doubt far from looking like they did 12 years ago. oh and finally make sure this happens every 5000km. Then everything in life will be just peachy ;)

also have you read the goods on oils sticky? think you might find it most helpful.

cheers

Camden

All done.

Took approx 4.5 litres. Mint R33 you were correct, last time when i filled it up i didnt wait for the oil to come down back into the sump. This time i did and its all good!

I ended up using mobil 1 5w-50w since i had one more bottle left. But i might start thinking about other oil at a later date. i.e closer to the next 5000k oil change.

Haha.. yeah about the goods on oil... its just a massively long topic about which oil everyone thinks is better. I was kinda after the oil capcity rather then what oil to use .

Thanks for all your help! Appreciated!

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...