Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey folks,

I have a steep driveway and had to reverse up it yesterday. The 4WD kicks in but then makes a vibration and noise whenever the clutch is disengaged and power applied. It is very odd, it never does that in forward motion.

Hard to tell where it is coming from as the vib transfers through the frame.

It's an R33 GTR V-spec.

Would like to hear other's thoughts.

thx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206269-noise-in-reverse/
Share on other sites

Naw, I know the noise the straight cut reverse gears make. This is a big vibration that sounds like something slipping. It is when I slip the clutch to get power and 4wd kicks in. But like I said it doesn't do it in fwd motion only reverse, so I don't think it is the clutch.

Almost sounds like grinding but kind of muffled.

I'm puzzled.

  • 2 months later...

ive gt an r33 gtr vspec, i also have steep driveway and when i reverse there is also a grinding sound from the gearbox, makes me feel like the reverse gear is going to let go, it doesnt happen when i can build up momentum. ie i have to quickly reverse on the flat garage surface and the its fine on the steep driveway. also my car has an exedy h/d clutch

I have a non-V-spec R33 GTR so when reversing up the driveway the car shudders but that was previously the mechanical diff.

When going both forward and (possibly) a little louder when reversing I get grinding and sometimes vibration from the front but...not sure if its normal or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...