Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Model: r33 gtst

Milage: 88000 genine

Transmission: 5 speed manal

Location: geelong vic

registered to:- 25 nov 08

Price: $19500 price drop $18000 $17000 $16,500 now $15,800

Contact:0431743866

Engine Modifications:

Apexi Power Fc with hand controller

770cc injectors

50mm wastegate hks

garret 35/40 turbo with .82 exhaust housing

high mount manifold

jd custom intake plenum

xf throttle body

tomei valve springs

splitfire coils

3inch custom stainless intercooler pipe tig welded

pwr intercooler 600/300/100

z32 airflow meter

adjustable cam gear exhaust side only

gates racing timing belt with brand new idlers and tensioners done at 72000kms

4inch dump pipe stainless

3 1/2 inch cat

3 inch trust cat back exhaust

blits bov

os giken twin plate clucth 3000km ago

tuned by ben at racepace

Wheels

17inch rodny jane racing wheels

235/45/R17 dunlop lemans tyres 75% tread

suspenion

kyb front and rear shockers

king springs

gtr front and rear strut brace

hicas lock bar

bendix ultermet front and rear brake pads 3000kms ago

interior

B piller twin gauge pod boost and air fuel ratio gauges

$2500 stereo

gizmo boost controller

Serviced every 2500km very reliable car never let me down yet

very clean car i was the first owner in australia i recieved the car stock from japan in 2005

it has a very save tune could see 330kws easy

test drives welcome genuine buyers only

will consider selling parts seprate pm me if you are interested

$15800 need this car sold i have bought a new car

post-36415-1203221774_thumb.jpg

post-36415-1203222326_thumb.jpg

post-36415-1203222682_thumb.jpg

post-36415-1203223007_thumb.jpg

Edited by SIDEWAYS R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206410-for-sale-r33-gtst-291kw/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...