Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:random bits

Age:10-15yrs

Condition:all medium to good unless stated

To Fit: R33 nissan skyline

Location:MtGambier SA

Comments:

heya all.

picked up my r33 today, and when the guy i got it off said it was full of random bits he wasnt kidding!

basicly have 2 full interiors, plus all the random bits and pieces... so basicly post the bit you want up here, ill check if i have it...

heres some of the bits i have...

-front seats

-dash surround

-random seatbelts

-interior trims

-window seals

-door cards

-r33 auto trans, unsure of condition... 300ono!

never know what else i have... everything is open to offers.. will trade bits plus cash for any of the following

-"greedy style" inlet plenum (suit rb25det)

-5speed r33 gbox

-master cylinder

-clutch cylinder

-H/D clutch

contact me via PM on here, email ([email protected]) orrrr sms me on 0431535745

**located in mt gambier SA, will post at buyers expense**

Chasing after what the dude above is after lol, just the dash console itself.

Is the car a sedan or coupe? If its a sedan, can we talk the sphincter of the universe about the door trims

heya guys.

more details..

the car is a s1.. but for all i know the other trims could be s2, im not to surer, will post up pics 2mrw arvo.

good chance i may have that surround.. will look and take pics 2mrw once again.

wednesday night ill be seperating all the bits ill be using from the (seriously) massive pile of 33 bits ive got, and writing a list of what i do have, along with pics...

hey all.

heres some pics of the m assive pile... some parts pictured arent for sale, as there going on my car

(SO DONT BE OFFENDED IF I SAY ITS NOT FOR SALE TOUGH. SHIT.)

among everything, heres some of the more wanted bits id suppose..

-ignitor boxes (found 3 of them)

-set of front seats, mint condition w/rails

-door trims good condition

-rear seat

-random seatbelts

-door seals

-rear seats trim bit (see pics)

-2x auto middle console bits

-1x auto shifter bit

-standard struts

-climate control

-1x standard headunit thing (double din)

heaps and heaps of random shit... basicly like, post up what ya want, ill see if ive got it.

post-26128-1203319306_thumb.jpg

post-26128-1203319335_thumb.jpg

post-26128-1203319368_thumb.jpg

post-26128-1203319404_thumb.jpg

post-26128-1203319440_thumb.jpg

post-26128-1203319477_thumb.jpg

sorry.

no luck on headlights, the two i have, are thtwo going into my r33 :P

parts list will be updated 2mrw arvo, along with pictures :)

make it a bit easier as to waht parts i have/havent got lol.

just incase the firstpost is unclear, ill TRADE any off these parts...

-ignitor boxes (found 3 of them)

-set of front seats, mint condition w/rails

-door trims good condition

-rear seat

-random seatbelts

-door seals

-rear seats trim bit (see pics)

-2x auto middle console bits

-1x auto shifter bit

-standard struts

-climate control

-1x standard headunit thing (double din)

for any of THESE parts./

-"greedy style" inlet plenum (suit rb25det)

-5speed r33 gbox

-master cylinder

-clutch cylinder

-H/D clutch

cheers daniel

def got the A pilar...

will check for the consolde lid.

all PMS replied to, no chance for pics and confirmation on some bits.. only just finished work.

will let you guys know, and have the list up over the weekend :D

apoligies to those waiting on pics, and replys to PMs.

pretty flat out with afterhours work this week.

will clean everything up, n sort it out 2mrw arvo and post pics, etc, and check all switches etc are working.

cheers. daniel

**seats on hold till next weekend**

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...