Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Started up my car the other day and it was running really rough........... took it to my wifes uncle who is a mechanic and had a look. said it appears to be running on only 5 cyl............ checked em out and there is definatley a miss in cyl #1.

as we were only at his house couldnt find out for sure what is causing it.........thought i would throw it up here to get peoples opinions on it..

As far as i can tell i have 4 options as to the cause....

spark plug

coil pack

injectors

or the bad one.......a valve..

the car is running just really rough and bad vibration through the whole car..........any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206474-only-running-on-5-cyl/
Share on other sites

firstly try to eliminate all the easy problems first eg spark plugs and test the coils to see if that fixes it.

if it is that then your lucky, if not then you'll have to go about replacing the more expensive bits.

so try the easy bits first

swap spark plugs with another cylinder.. this will cheak sparkies..

pull the coil out and start it without a spark plug.. if it sparks.. its not the coil packs

injectors.. use a multimeter.. get a workshop manual.. and cheak the voltage/amprage

cross all these off.. and then double cheak them.. then find 3 other ways to cheak each part.. then find other things that can cause it.. and as a VERY last thing assume a valve.. because valves dont just shit themselfs for no reason.. broken valves are caused from wrong calculations when shaveing blocks/heads.. or extended periods of very very poor timing settings..

see what can cause damage valves and then diagnose those and see if it realy does lead to broken valves..

An easy way is to go down to repco or supercheap and get a compression tester.. it fits where your spark plug goes.. you disconnect the battery and then crank the engine.. and it will regester the max PSI on a guage.. this can determin if there is a leak within the chamber. Do this to all 6 cyl's

BOM!.. gosh im good! :whistling:

lol... Im really proud of that!

and sorry to complicate things.. but gaskets can also cause a los of preassure that can manifest or appear as though a cylinder has dropped..

keep us updated so we can help

Edited by GTS4WD
I feel sorry for GTS4WD. All that effort and a mechanic takes over... :ermm:
agreed. there wasn't any real point in asking the forum in the end, ask the mechanic next time :D

So your saying I dont do as good of a job as a mechanic!?! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...