Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good price for a rebuilt R33.

who rebuilt it?

and what brand parts were used for pistons, rods, bolts/studs, bearings etc?

any receipts and details of the rebuild?

Was the new stock turbo direct from Nissan?

what did they charge for that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206539-delete-topic/#findComment-3659344
Share on other sites

yeh gtst i was thinking it was a bit cheap!! how much you rekon i sell it for?? this motor is fresh like i say and got a long life ahead of it.. do u have any intrest gtst??? or just pooching my topic..

dw about what workshop... gtst you have been reading all my posts havnt you and want to no where i got my rebuild done not telling but happy to tell buyer as would be better to keep going there for tuning

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206539-delete-topic/#findComment-3666403
Share on other sites

lol... I was just asking questions.

was I rude in any way?

I don't think I ruined your thread at all.

I don't see why you can't say.

Yes. I have receipts from Nissan Parts department for new pistons, rings, rods, bearings, gaskets, turbo, water pump, oil pump, tensioner, timing belt all totaling $xxxx

and

Yes, I have a receipt from workshop xyz for the assembly of the engine and puting it back in the car all for $xxxx

all this work was done at xxxxxx kms and the car now has yyyyyy kms.

I was simply asking for details of what you had already stated.

why would you not openly state the workshop that did the work if you are recommending that the next owner goes to this shop.

obviously you are happy with them.

If you think that I have said something wrong on this thread, then please PM Blitz. he is a moderator on these forums and will remove my post if he believes that I have broken the rules.

krzysiu - I agree.. I start shit. but show me where I've done that on this thread.

I only asked simple questions like saying "got any pics"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206539-delete-topic/#findComment-3666984
Share on other sites

Dont mind GTST, he isnt interested in the car. He is like the forum wanker, starts shit regardless on every thread he can.

yeh ino his a goose

Edited by rich flavour
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206539-delete-topic/#findComment-3668144
Share on other sites

I reckon GTST had a fair enough question. Might have been interested myself if rich flavour was willing to be open about where the work was done. :thumbsup:

Oh well, good luck with the sale ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206539-delete-topic/#findComment-3668834
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...