Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1989 R32 Manual Skyline, Original White (resprayed), Original Manual (rare), Reg till Oct 2008, RWC, 145,000 kms, Drives excellent, excellent engine, interior in good condition, body in good condition no crash history, Hasnt been thrashed. Has been a family car for past 10 months and has not missed a beat. Very reliable. Car was dynoed 10 months ago to check Air fuel ratio and made 148rwkws on 11psi..

RB20DET

FMIC

R32 GTR Wheels

Aftermarket Mirrors

Clear Indicators (comes with spare set)

Catback stainless exhaust

Aftermarket dumppipe

Brand new King Spring super low's (not fitted come with car)

Comes with Road worthy certificate

Very reliable car

If you would like more photos please pm and will email them!!!

Asking $10500 ono with rwc

P5130005.jpg

P5130004.jpg

P5130003.jpg

P5130002.jpg

Edited by SLK-GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206654-fs-manual-r32-4-door/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks Chris car had been awesome. Its just not quiet big enough for the 3 of us :down: cheeers mate will keep you updated on S13 pics..

Free bump for my old beast...great little car this, I miss driving it...!

Good luck with the sale Todd, thanks for thre pics of the S13...lookin fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiine! Keep em comin!

Cheers,

Chris

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

may have cash buyer interested.

pls send pics of engine and interior to:

[email protected]

what suburb are you located for inspection purposes and are you willing to have a RACV test done at buyers expense

Cheers,

Andrew

intrested in swap????

have a look at my post and can you please reply on pm either way coz i dont think i'll come back to this thread

heres the link anyway.....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ho...98#entry3748898

thanks

Sami

  • 2 weeks later...

Maybe interested, would it be possible to turn the boost down to standard? its because i have been told that it is possible to have a r32 gtst on ur p plates but it has to be under power to weight laws therefore it would have to be less powerful than 148 kw only thing i can think of is change it back down to standard boost. Thanks

Hey mate the boost is standard thats what boost they make with a fmic and a free flowing exhaust, dump etc,

Maybe interested, would it be possible to turn the boost down to standard? its because i have been told that it is possible to have a r32 gtst on ur p plates but it has to be under power to weight laws therefore it would have to be less powerful than 148 kw only thing i can think of is change it back down to standard boost. Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...