Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The factory ECU can only retard the ignition by a certain amount.

When it starts pinging (RB25det's have 2 knock sensors), the ECU will retard the timing. But if the pinging is really bad, the ECU won't be able to retard it enough to stop it.

J

I usually run either BP Ultimate or Optimax in my both of my bikes as do most of my friends and none of us have ever really had any problems with either nor noticed any difference between them.

I ran my R32 on Optimax all the time as there was a Shell servo just round the corner from my house in Sydney :) Always ran really well.

Since I have had my R33 I have been running it on BP Ultimate always and have found it to run a bit rough and kind of stutter a bit around 8-9 PSI.

Filled it up with Optimax on Saturday and now it is silky smooth and runs perfectly at 11 PSI.

Whacky but there you go.

All fuels loose their potency with time.(and surpriseingly short time)

Having raced cars and boats, it was normal procedure to purchase the fuel either the day before or morning of the event and put it in the car/boat just before the race.

I know of more than a dozen people that have had problems with Optimax. Shell did apparently change the formula in the last 12 months which has caused problems in certain engines but in my opinion the problem mainly arises from dodgy service station operators mixing Optimax with ULP/PULP.

This could be why my car is running like Shnite. Put a full tank in about a month ago.

GSI: Thats Parra rd is where I fill up too! first time I had probs my car was stalling while croozing (fixed with BP ultimate) now it's almost stalling when I hit a bump. Will I ever learn?

.:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
×
×
  • Create New...