Jump to content
SAU Community

Major Problem With Idle...

Gunr32

By Gunr32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Gunr32 Enthusiast

Gunr32

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

My oxy sensor wiring from the loom ended up on my manifold and melted both sides..So i bought a new sensor today and installed it.For the loom side i bought a plug with 3 wires attached to it..

i soldered (properly done) the plug with three wires to the loom side,and plug the oxy senor in..everything looked perfect...

The problem is when the air-conds on and i accellerate and let go the car losses idle and shuts off...

yet another problem is that when the car is running i dc and re connect the afm,the cars shuts off..

car has lost power,its boosting but not enough,backfire,uses alot fuel now,basically running rich..

i have checked the afm,tps,iac, all the connections on all the electrical and seems to be fine..

Im thinking its something got to do with o2 sensor,maybe the soldering??

btw its s15 sr20det,walbro fuel pump,fmic,13psi boost,full zorst,stock ecu,

help needed asap plz...

thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207005-major-problem-with-idle/
Share on other sites
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

Straaange.

The ECU could have been damaged, I would have thought pretty unlikely though.

Have you checked the ECU for error codes? Note sure about a S15 ECU, but a Skyline one doesn't shut the car off when you DC the AFM; it goes into limp mode.

Did the car act like this when the O2 sensor was DC?

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
hey guys,

My oxy sensor wiring from the loom ended up on my manifold and melted both sides..So i bought a new sensor today and installed it.For the loom side i bought a plug with 3 wires attached to it..

i soldered (properly done) the plug with three wires to the loom side,and plug the oxy senor in..everything looked perfect...

The problem is when the air-conds on and i accellerate and let go the car losses idle and shuts off...

yet another problem is that when the car is running i dc and re connect the afm,the cars shuts off..

car has lost power,its boosting but not enough,backfire,uses alot fuel now,basically running rich..

i have checked the afm,tps,iac, all the connections on all the electrical and seems to be fine..

Im thinking its something got to do with o2 sensor,maybe the soldering??

btw its s15 sr20det,walbro fuel pump,fmic,13psi boost,full zorst,stock ecu,

help needed asap plz...

thanks,

You shouldn't solder any wires on any car - they should all be crimped.

What happens if you disconnect the 02 sensor then do an ECU reset by removing it from the harness for 5 seconds? Does it only stall when the AC is on? Is there an ATMO BOV. SR20's shouldn't stall with the AFM disconnected unless there is some other major problem.

green 33 Explorer

green 33

Posted
Posted

I am far from an expert when it comes to O2 sensors so could be wrong about the following statement.

I have heard that one of the wires to the o2 sensor reads the ambient temp and this wire cannot be soldered shortened or the like, but would have thought it would only refer to the wires between plug - sensor.

I have also heard that the ECU can be effected from shorts, best check there would be to borrow a mates ECU swap them over and see if that is infact your issue,

Would be a bonus if you could keep us updated, so many times you read ppl's problems - suggestions, but rarely you read how it was fixed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...