Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys/gals

I have just brought a 80mm throttle body, that I want to fit to my R33 GTS25 as part of an on going project. I realise that I will need to get a plate made up to fit it to the intake manifold, but am unsure what else I will need to get done to get it to work, keeping in mind that I am already running a after market ecu (GTS Link) so hopefully I won't have any issues with reprogramming the ecu.

Has any one tried putting a larger throttle body or enlarging the factory T/B on there N/A? and what sort of gains were achieved?

Cheers

Rach

search tags: q45 afm upgrade n/a rb25 rb30 throttle body

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207108-q45-afm-anyone-run-one-on-an-na/
Share on other sites

Hey guys/gals

I have just brought a 80mm throttle body, that I want to fit to my R33 GTS25 as part of an on going project. I realise that I will need to get a plate made up to fit it to the intake manifold, but am unsure what else I will need to get done to get it to work, keeping in mind that I am already running a after market ecu (GTS Link) so hopefully I won't have any issues with  reprogramming the ecu.  

Has any one tried putting a larger throttle body or enlarging the factory T/B on there N/A? and what sort of gains were achieved?

Cheers

Rach

on my rb25de headed rb30e, i put a modified xf falcon t/b ( had it bored out 4mm making it 68 mm at the butterfly) . was an easy fit . just ported manifold a bit to suit the t/b . now i remember had to mess with the t/b switch a bit , give you details if you want . as for performance difference , i dont really know cos i never ran the engine before i had put in on .

lol nice

Well it looks like this hasn't been done too often, I will post up results when the T/B goes on

if you are going to put an 80mm throttle on the car, then it would make sense to make sure ALL the induction piping is, at minimum, 80mm or else i don't see the point

my mate with an NA 300zx put on ported throttle bodies when he got his heads ported. They made a nice difference, but he kept all the induction sizes the same so it made sense

interested to see the result... keep us posted

  • 2 years later...

im putting one on my car atm (actually in the middle of it, only on the net to find safc in/out settings) thats on a 30de, ill let you know how it goes.

it sucks heaps at idle though, so with any luck the air speed wont be too bad, on an n/a 25 i really cant imagine you needing anymore than a std rb25 afm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...