Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

probably worth a mention that with the rather large turbo you are running and depending on how

tight the converter is you will probably have to give the big girl a sniff to persuade it to come up on the brake. A small dry shot will do it, something like 50hp. Unless you want to be on the start line staaling it up while the other car crosses the finish line like most VLs you see

Its always possable but it wasnt too bad with the manual so the auto/stally/transbrake/2 step might be fine...

If im going nos ill go an even bigger turbo i reckon, or atleast just a larger hot side on the to4z...

the manual is nohing like an auto, and if you are looking to up the turbine wheel and or housing, you will definately need it.

if your converter is loose you might get away with it but mph will suffer badly.

Its always possable but it wasnt too bad with the manual so the auto/stally/transbrake/2 step might be fine...

If im going nos ill go an even bigger turbo i reckon, or atleast just a larger hot side on the to4z...

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, i got a rb20det r32gtst auto with a re4r01a rebuilt box with 2500rpm stall.

Can i just 'add' a transbrake to my application?

do transbrakes run off how big your convertor is or is it completely seperate?

My goal is to be able to stall it up alot more then 2500 but does that mean i have to UP the convertor aswell to match the transbrake?

obviously im new to all this...

cheers

Aaron

Hi, i got a rb20det r32gtst auto with a re4r01a rebuilt box with 2500rpm stall.

Can i just 'add' a transbrake to my application?

No. The transbrake is a part of the valvebody. If you don't already have one incoporated into your valvebody, you'll have to change this aspect of the transmission.

do transbrakes run off how big your convertor is or is it completely seperate?

How high the transbrake will stall is directly related to how big the stall of your converter is although their not usually the same. i.e. you may see higher rpm on the transbrake than you otherwise would on the footbrake.

My goal is to be able to stall it up alot more then 2500 but does that mean i have to UP the convertor aswell to match the transbrake?

Maybe, maybe not. You could have your box pulled apart and the valvebody replaced and see how you go rpm-wise but if you want to stall it much, much higher than the 2500rpm you're currently set up with, you will almost certainly have to change converter.

No. The transbrake is a part of the valvebody. If you don't already have one incoporated into your valvebody, you'll have to change this aspect of the transmission.

It's still a standard auto valve body,will it need to be modified?

Completely.

How high the transbrake will stall is directly related to how big the stall of your converter is although their not usually the same. i.e. you may see higher rpm on the transbrake than you otherwise would on the footbrake.

so with current setup + adding a transbrake,i may if lucky be able to stall it to 3000rpm

Too hard to say as it relies on a great many other factors.

Maybe, maybe not. You could have your box pulled apart and the valvebody replaced and see how you go rpm-wise but if you want to stall it much, much higher than the 2500rpm you're currently set up with, you will almost certainly have to change converter.

Do they modify the stock auto valve body to incorporate the transbrake? Otherwise im looking at a bigger convertor to acheive the big transbrake.right?

The simplest way is to fit a higher RPM stall converter.

for those that dont know how a transbrake works, in simple terms it engages reverse gear when first gear is selected. so you roll into stage in fist gear, engage T/B and then hold down micro-switch. reverse gear is then also engaged meaning that the transmission is trying to drive against itself. you then release the brake and apply the throttle firmly. boost can be built as there is obviously load as the transmission pushes against itself.

this is where the converter comes in. think of a loose or standard converter as a car with clutch slip. a loose converter will allow you to see alot of rpm while on the transbrake. this is good as it will come up quick, but it will behave like a car with clutch slip when you leave, giving you an average 60foot time and poor MPH overall. A tight converter is best but slower to see rpm and make boost. This is where Nos comes in.

Anyway you are on the gas at 4500rpm and 15psi. you release the microswitch which releases reverse gear and away you go. its like those toy cars that you drag backwards and then let go. the glove box flies open and shit goes every where and the front wheels are in the air for the fist 40 feet. cool.

post-20078-1211801208_thumb.jpg

Edited by BezerkR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...