Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Ellie,

After 3 days of driving my R34 GTT on the new Japanese spec Tein SS. The impression was very good, actually better than I expected. At first I was a bit skeptical about it, many ppls on forum and other sources were comparing the Jap Vs Aus spec Tein SS. But due to price difference, and Henry (from RMS motor recommendation) I chose the Jap spec and save about 400 dollars.

I cannot compare the Aus spec vs Jap spec as I have not driven the Aus spec one b4.

Luckily this long weekend in Adelaide I was able to take it out to some long journey outside Adelaide to test it out.

This is my impression of the Tein SS Jap spec:

The ride quality was much much better than my previous HKS one, as the HKS one was clearly design for Jap road, track uses.

The suspension was also very quiet going through huge potholes, rough surfaces.

The car seems to absorbs the uneven surfaces very well at both low and high speed (even better than the stock ones).

Handling was much better than the stock suspension, but not as sharp and light as the HKS one I have previously. But nevertheless, it is very sufficient for road usage even pushing the car very hard, it grips extremely well. Especially with uneven surface which the HKS seems to slip due to the car bouncing around a bit too much. At higher speed, you can tell much of the difference between the Tein SS (jap spec) than the stock, because it seems to makes the car's handling much more precise and responsive (although, not to the degree of the HKS one)

Ride height it remained the same as my previous setting on the HKS, which allows me to able to go into my house's driveway everytime without scrapping the front skirt.

So yeh, Ellie, I think you wont be dissapointed with the new suspension you ordered. Highly recommended for everyday usage, much much better than the stock ones. I will keep you up to date with new detail as I discover additional info.

Hope that helps, and would gladly like to hear your point of view when you get yours done

Cheers.

:/:D HooRay for the hulk! The green giant has torn out from the hearsay to give a great review of a product!

Thankyou for your detailed initial impressions buddy, it will make me rest a little easier tonight. As I suspected, I personally think the aus spec are a great upgrade but are a little too soft from the few cars i've driven but the jap specs sound to have the right balance between handling and comfort i'm chasing.

Hopefully i will recieve my little upgrade tomorrow and will also update this thread with my amatuer impressions on how they feel!

Thanks again

Hey ellie,

Awesome thread, ive been looking for these answers to!

When you fit yours take some pics etc! ive got my tein SS's on order and am going to try attempt a self install lol.

What does adjusting them for an even ride involve?

Cheers!

Hey ellie,

Awesome thread, ive been looking for these answers to!

When you fit yours take some pics etc! ive got my tein SS's on order and am going to try attempt a self install lol.

What does adjusting them for an even ride involve?

Cheers!

No worries mate, I wanted an honest thread with first hand impressions/testimonies. With out the, "my mates reckons" usual.

I'm glad someone else is getting some use out of the thread :D

Once again, I have been delayed on delivery but hope to resolve this issue with in the next couple of days.

On the install side - It should be a snap! I'll get some photos when I do it and post it up. To my knowledge (fell free to correct me?), if you buy them with tops they will come already assembled and set to standard ride hieght. So, all you should have to do is check over the assembly for tightness and swap with the original items on the car. disconnect brake line fasteners, two nuts up top and one on the bottom and out it will come front and rear. of course the standard recommendations are always in place = Get a wheel alignment etc. etc.

I plan on running around on standard hieght for a while to let the whole assembly settle. Then i'll corner weight it, fit all my adjustment bushes and align.

To get an even ride I would assume you adjust the base spring seat until you get the look you are looking for but it would be much more benifitial (IMO) to get them corner weighted which wwill give you a good height from the ones i've helped out with and will optimise the package. It won't be dumped though if that is what you are chasing :D ! By my theory on it is = you wouldn't buy an aftermarket ECU and then not have it tuned right! So, why pay close on $1600 for suspension to not have it set up properly?

I'll try and get something together if it will help you out but i'm still waiting on mine, so, when is a variable.

What setting you running at the moment Ellie?

I think mine is about 3-4 clicks softer from the default setting (which I think its the hardest setting). It is not too soft and not too hard, perfect for road that has some impefection.

My ride height is about 330 F and 335 R.

But I guess that will be different from your R32.

^^^^^^^^Look at the bloody time :P Restless night!

I'll have to get back to you on finer pionts as I literally fit them in approx. 35 min after work and had to wind the fronts up a bit to even the ride out because the rear was almost standard but the fronts were very low! So height wise, was pure guesstimation :(

#Obviously this is not recommended for most people#

I'm going to get the trusty tape measure out on the weekend to set them to standard ride height so the car will retain some form of normal wheel alignment for the short interim. Just until I can get my alignment bushes in and get a hold of some scales to corner weight the car. Then obviously comes the wheel alignment!

Shock stiffness = I haven't had time to play much yet! I'm a bit of a green horn to all this so, I'm just feeling my way. All I have tried is full soft and drove all the way home from work on full hard :D (not unbearably rough but my back was thanking me for it) I am a pussy when it comes to stiff rides though :)

Personal opinions on a very short time so far = Soft = very comfortable, only slightly stiffer than stock but only really feels that way because you can feel the difference between a progressive rate spring and a constant + shock to match it. Very girlfriend friendly but can stiill handle very nicely.

Hard = You can really feel the car follow the road. It doesn't feel particularly rough but the car does follow every undulation in the road which is much quicker than your body does. Too stiff for my liking but I am a pussy and appreciate a more compliant ride!

BIG DISCLAIMER = THESE ARE ONLY MY HONEST GREENHORN OPINIONS

I'll definitely keep updating hulk, but I'm sure people will get bored of every little change i try so i'll try to keep it summerised

  • 9 months later...

Ive had Jap Super Streets on my R33 for about 6 months now. Couldnt fault them. They felt stiff for about a week. Once i got used to the initial diff between them and standard. I dont even notice anymore. On some longer drives (couple of hour), the old body can feel a bit stiff but i wouldnt say its any worse then any other car ive been in. The only time i truely notice how stiff they are is when you hit a pot hole or a very sudden bump. Over normal bumps it isnt anything worth complaining about.

My experience with the super streets is based on, stock 16" rims, Enkei 18" rims, as well as 15" rims with MT streets for the 1/4. They aint perfect for the strip but it certainly doesnt cause me to start making excuses about the suspension setup being unsuitable. As they are more then fine for me as everyday comfort. I am yet to take it to the circuit to see how it fairs around the track so i can't comment there.

Luke

I,ve had a set of tein SS Jap spec in my R32 GTS-T around 6 months now, I couldn't be happier with the results. With the dampenin set at full soft the car sokes up the bumps quite well and is quite comfortable. Even on really rough road its not too bad.

With the dampening setting set to full hard the road can really be felt and the car really becomes quite firm. Body roll disapears and the car handles extreamely well.

After putting in the EDFC it allowed me to really fine tune the suspension and create a very balanced car at a push of a button.

Tein SS realy transformed the car and I can't wait for Sway bars.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...