Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was wondering if anyone could tell me what headlight globes and what brand is best to put in my r33 series 1.5

I want them to be a bright white i've seen a lot of japansese cars around lately with the bright

white lights and they look cool and can I put higher wattage globes without melting the headlights

or would it be safer to just stick with 12v 55w which is in it now.

any help on this is appreciated I am so sick of my yellow looking headlights but dont really want

to fork out a lot of money for other headlights at the moment as im still paying off my car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207668-r33-headlight-globes/
Share on other sites

Next time do a search in the cosmetics section, but it's not recommended that you put higher wattage globes in your headlights because they'll melt and it's not recommended that you go for HID kits to make your light output better cause it'll create hot spots and HUGE amounts of glare.

Try to get something from the Philips range. Spend some quality money on quality globes.

Been covered many times. Your low beam globe type is most likely H1.

I can tell you what NOT to buy, the MTEC brand, it's a shithouse

thought I was getting some nice white bulbs with a hint of blue and the light came out with a red tinge.

If you have anything besides S2 headlights then 35W HID kits might be alright for you.

And they're about 50-70% brighter than your normal 55W halogen bulbs

Edited by POLICE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...